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Quick Fusible Applique Method

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I am sewing a full size super single blanket, “The Secret Garden”, that was specially designed for my daughter. The 62″ x 84″ blanket has lots of appliques, if I wasn’t miscounted, there are a total of 360 pieces of them (the photo shown below is only part of the applique I did). I was slapping my forehead and feel a little regret to be so enthusiastic on the design when I realized how time consuming it was to trace every single applique by hand. Well, project must go on and I need to think of a way to make things go faster before I surrender on it. Through out the process, I’ve come out this method that make things a lot easier and faster for me.

Click page 2 to go to the tutorial and I hope that you find it useful for your fusible applique project too.

{Get full tutorial on next page.}

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Pinwheel Quilt Block Pattern

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Here is the pinwheel quilt block pattern and tutorial I have promised to show you in the Snowman Quilted Pillow Cover and how to piece Half Square Triangle (Easy Quick Method). Finally, I’ve gotten it done within my busy schedule between crafting and renovating of my new house. YAY!!!

This simple Pinwheel Quilt Block is constructed by 4 pieces of Half Square Triangle (HST) units. Arrange HSTs in such a way to resemble a pattern of revolving triangles, just like a pinwheel.

Hope that you will try it out soon!!!

I am currently working on my daughter’s full size super single blanket, hope to be able to update you on the progress soon. The new house is waiting for a DIY on a plank wall, build-in cabinets, furniture and decorations, and we will be ready to move in. Can’t wait!

{Get full tutorials on next page.}

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Tree Quilt Block

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When I sewed the Quilted Snowman Pillow covers, I wanted to make 3 of them a little different, so, I added some pine tree quilt blocks at the side panels on one of the snowman pillows. You have seen the one with bird prints at the previous tutorial, now, this is the tutorial to quilt a tree block with Half Square Triangles (HST). Coming up next is the pinwheel piecing. Piecing up a tree block has never been so easy with the basic half square triangle units, don’t trust me but see it for yourself on the next page!

In fact, I have a question floating on my head while sewing this: Has anyone seen this technique to piece a tree quilt block from HST before? May be from books or other website? I was scratching my head and squeezing some brain juices to come out with this pine tree shape. I hope it is something new that haven’t been published before. If it is an old technique, I wish I knew it earlier to save my time to design it

It could be too late for 2012 Christmas….lol…. it sure is too late for 2012, but, plenty of time for 2013 Christmas to piece up a tree quilt block. Save up this tutorial either in you browser’s bookmark or pin it on your Pinterest board.  I love Pinterest as I can see clearly what I had pinned with a picture to show. Hope to see you sewing something with this tree block soon. Remember, time flies, in a blink of an eye, Christmas will be just around the corner.

{Get full details on next page.}

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Quick & Easy Way To Make Multiple Half Square Triangle Blocks

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Making quilt block isn’t as difficult as I first thought. I have learned the hard way and the easy way, picking up experiences as I go. Time is precious, creating and sharing a fail-proof project is always my mission to you! Apart from the recent basic 9 patch block I shared, today, here is another quick and easy method to sew a multiple half square triangles (HST).

Half Square Triangle is one of the popular and versatile basic quilt blocks that can develop into many patterns, be it used alone or combined with other block unit. Just to name a few of what basic Half  Square Triangles able to create by arranging them differently:

1. Pinwheel
2. Pine Tree
3. Friendship Star
4. Broken Dishes
5. Hourglass
6. Flying Geese
7. Triangles
8. Star Flower
9. ZigZag / Chevron
10.  many more…..

This method is suitable for quilts and patchworks that need a lot of repeated 2-color half square triangles. I used these HST in my recent 3 snowman pillows where I sewed 2 of them with Christmas tree and pinwheel quilt blocks, tutorial to follow soon.

{Get Pattern & Tutorial on next page.}

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Basic 9-Patch Quilt Block

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If you are the beginner in piecing, you might be thinking of cutting many small squares then stitch up one by one to make this 9-patch quilt block. You could do it this way but it is slow. Now, I am going to show you a method that can help in expediting the process of piecing the Basic 9-Patch Quilt Block. Click page 2 to watch the tutorial on how to piece.

Ever since I bought my quilting version Bernina sewing machine, it makes my sewing so much fun and easy. Using the right presser foot for the right job really helps a lot. For quilt piecing, I like to use the quarter inch foot (1/4″ foot) or patchwork foot. With the foot sit alongside of the raw edge of the fabric, and needle at the center, you will get an exact 1/4″ seam allowance. If you keep the fabric size and seam allowance correct, you won’t go wrong with sewing a quilt block.

The following picture shows the latest project I sewed with this 9-patch quilt block as an example. Since I mixed the 9-patch quilt block with a square fabric, this patchwork is called Double 9-Patch Quilt. Pattern and tutorial to sew an oven mitt with this quilt block coming up soon.

{Get full details on next page.}

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How To Make Intrecciato Weave

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May be you are not a fan of Bottega Veneta, but I am sure you have seen this signatured woven texture in handbags and purses made popular since early of the millennium. The designer and developer of the luxury artisan leather goods, Bottega Veneta, called it Intrecciato Weave and it remains the signature of it’s brand.

This is the tutorial on how to weave a non-sew light weight denim / cotton strips I demo it on the water bottle holder. If you are interested on the water bottle holder pattern, it will be on the next tutorial. There are several ways to weave fabrics strip and this tutorial is something for a neat look, though you need to invest some time on preparing the strips, but it is worth the time!!! I might have another fabric weaving tutorial coming the way as I am testing out a different technique, wish me luck to get it done successfully so I can share the method with you

Hope you will enjoy making this Bottega Veneta inspired Intrecciato Weave by using quilting weight cotton or light weight denim.

{Get full details on next page.}

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Before and After Organize

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As you can see from the above before photo, I can’t even put on the lid to cover the box before stacking it up on the shelf. It is no joke when I need to get a specific ribbon out from the box. I found out I can free up a lot of space by removing the packaging of some of the ribbons. Some packagings especially the spools with big core are simply too bulky to keep. So, I decided to take those out. Then, I need to find a way to keep my ribbon organize and tidy otherwise they will get tangled up after a few digs. This is where the cardboard comes in place to wind them up and keep them in place. A tiny head sewing pins are handy to keep the ends on the winding. Read more after the jump to the second page.

{Get full details on next page.}

There are vast varieties of sewing machine foot in today’s sewing technology that make sewing easy and convenient. Among the basic and the most common use are buttonhole, zipper, zigzag, straight stitch, embroidery or darning and blind hem foot. Other specialty foot include walking foot, piecing foot, roll hemming foot, ruffle foot, pin tuck foot, cording foot, pearl & sequin foot, concealed zipper foot, binding foot etc…. Get the basic sewing foot introduction & some sewing tips after this jump.

Toyota sewing machine has been one of the longest sewing machines I’ve ever used before I bought my recent sewing machine. In the early 1990′s, my sister bought her first electric Toyota sewing machine which changed the whole sewing experience in the family. It is so easy to use compare to the antique foot paddle type, fast and neat, not to mention the built-in embroidery pattern available to make embellishment easy & beautiful. That time, my mom still preferred her old sewing machine because she thinks that the electrical one is too fast for her handicapped eye. With my passion in sewing and handicraft, I became the most frequent user of this sewing machine. Till today, it is still in working condition, with my mom, yes, the one who complaint that it is too fast but now she is the one who is using it for mending clothes and some simple sewing.

Guest blog post by Toyota Home Sewing – UK suppliers of
Sewing Machines & Sewing Machine Accessories
~ . ~ . ~ . ~ . ~
Sewing Machine Feet

Sewing with machines can be as complex as you choose to make it; the key is to start by knowing the basics and then get “hands on”!! Understand what you want to achieve, what best methods/equipment to use for that and treat it a bit like the concept of driving – “learning by doing”!! Everyone has a personal style and it’s great to throw yourself into that and impress yourself with your results, but the basics are essential to taking care of your machine (and mind)!!!

Below is some general advice on sewing machine accessories to help build up your knowledge of what’s available:

Buttonhole Foot
To achieve the correct measurements, quality and finish to a buttonhole – this foot is a must have in any sewing box! It saves time and creates a neat, professional look. With buttons being the key to completing any item (both aesthetically and practically) this really is an aid not to be missed.

Embroidery Foot
Perfect for creating decorative stitches and embellishments. I love using this foot; it can transform an old tired piece (clothing/cushions/cards) to a completely contemporary feel or even give an item a more classic transformation. It becomes so personal-it is a tool that never tires me to use. You can sew to a design or just really go with the flow and rhythm of the machine.

Straight Stitch Foot
Used for straight stitch work such as top stitching, seaming, quilting. Therefore it becomes a highly used, essential tool. It provides a great finish as it allows excellent fabric control when working with very fine material through to heavy fabric.

Blind Hem Foot
Like many of the feet the name describes this item exactly – a stitch that you can’t see the hem!! It is a more formal finish, extremely professional and yet so simple. Hand sewing takes time that most of us do not have so this foot makes the desirable result easily achievable with your machine!!

Zigzag Foot
Also known as the all-purpose foot, as this is perfect for most utility stitching and other standard functions. It is a great accessory to have on hand as a back-up foot. It has the benefit of a three needle position – center, left and right and allows control but movement whilst feeding.

Zipper Foot
This is designed for installing zips accurately; the design of the foot allows the needle to stitch closely to the item. It is also a must when piping with cord. Remember as well as new creations – Zips can be added to renovate old items (clothing and furnishings) to resize or even just bring them to trend!!

**If you know you are sewing a specific project or have a preferred method it is definitely worth taking a look into the ready to go Footwork Kits available by Toyota (ie “Footwork Kit Denim/Jean”) that make it simple to get started!!

Some other basic gems of advice when sewing with your machine are to:

• Use good thread
• Have a really good pair of scissors (sharp, clean and easy to hold)
• Multiple packs of machine needles and spare bobbins at the ready
• Keep handy a seam ripper that can efficiently (and safely) help undo any stitch errors
• Always have a selection of pins (you could make yourself a pin cushion!)
• Look after your machine!!!!! Keep it clean, free from dust (Machine Bags are fantastic), use a cleaning brush as routine, have a safe place for things and treat it well!!

Get the tutorial how to shorten metal zipper after this jump:

I wish I have all the colors and sizes of metal zippers stock in my craft room or….. I stay next to a zipper store. In reality, I am not and I only stock a few for some lengths (4″, 8″, 14″ & 18″) in some most popular colors (white, beige, brown & green). I used this method to shorten all my metal zipper sewing projects, like this, this, & this… and many more to come.

Material:
1. Metal zipper

Tools:
1. Wire cutters or nippers
2. Pliers
3. Ruler
4. Pencil
5. Scissors or Pinking Shear

Mark the new length on zipper. For this instance, I want to reduce my 4″ metal zipper to 3″.

Carefully remove the top stops from the zipper with wire cutter. Use the cutter tip to slightly ply open the top stop then remove it from the zipper.
Remove the teeth from the zipper by pulling them out one by one after ply open.
You may use nippers to remove the top stops and a stretch of zipper’s teeth in 1 pull which is a lot faster than pulling one by one, but, this method has a tendency to spoil the top stops. Use that method only if you have a pair of new top stops to put back after shortening.

Remove teeth until the marking or 1 tooth below the marking.

Put back the top stops and use a pair of pliers to crimp it back onto the zipper.
The shorter length of metal zipper is ready to be used for your next project.

I hope after reading this tutorial, you won’t hesitate any more with sewing a metal zipper on your project. I do understand how horrifying to hear a “sprungggg…” sound come out from your sewing machine while you are still pressing the paddle and guiding the zipper through the feed dog and presser foot, then you found that your needle tip disappeared and the needle crooked… scary, right!!! I experienced it before, so I know how you feel about needle breakage on your sewing machine.

Happy Sewing!!!!

Stacey is the author of the popular Cuddly Crochet: Adorable Toys, Hats, & More I recommended in “How To Amigurumi”. You will find most of her patterns are suitable to make into soft toys for small kids. There are 3 ways to get Stacey’s pattern: 1.) purchase her book for the amigurumi pattern, 2) go to her online store to buy her latest amigurumi pattern, or 3) try out her free pattern.

Be sure to browse through her fantastically informative website for all the amigurumi helps & tips and follow her blog for any latest updates.

Guest tutor: Stacey Trock

Step-by-Step Guide to Substituting Yarns in Amigurumi

You probably already know that amigurumi are adorable and fun to make… but you might not have known that you can substitute any yarn into any pattern that you’d like! In this post, I’m going to show you how to successfully substitute yarns and you’ll only be limited by your imagination!

Let’s start with the basics. If you use a smaller yarn than is recommended, you’ll need to use a smaller hook, and you’ll end up with a smaller amigurumi. Check out the two monsters above: the monster on the right was crocheted with the (recommended) worsted weight yarn and the monster on the left was crocheted with a smaller yarn and hook. Look how much smaller the one on the left is… isn’t he adorable?

Let’s get down to the details- how do you know what sized hook to use? Amigurumi patterns typically recommend that you use a hook smaller than is recommended for the yarn, so to substitute successfully, you’ll want to use a hook that’s the same amount smaller than is recommended for your yarn. Let’s look at an example.

Let’s pretend we’re looking at a pattern that recommends using a worsted weight yarn with a size F (3.75mm) hook. A worsted weight yarn usually uses a size H (5.0mm) hook. How do I know that? I peeked at the size hook recommended on the yarn label of a worsted weight yarn!

That means that the pattern recommends that you use a hook that is 1.25mm smaller than what is recommended on the yarn label.

So, now I have a smaller yarn that I want to make an amigurumi from. The yarn label for my smaller yarn recommends a 3.5mm hook.

To calculate what size hook we need, just subtract 1.25 from 3.5… and we find out that we’ll want to use a 2.25mm, which is a size B. So, grab your B hook and start crocheting! Easy!

Does it work the same way for bigger yarns? Of course! Let’s say we have a bulky yarn.

The bulky yarn label says that we want to use a size 10, which is a 6mm. 6 minus 1.25 is 4.75! Since there isn’t a 4.75 mm crochet hook, we’d probably round up to a 5mm (size H) and get started!

A couple of other points to keep in mind:
• If you’re using a bigger yarn, you’re going to also use slightly more yardage than is called for in the pattern. Smaller yarns will use less yardage.
• Scale your eyes accordingly! In the monsters above, the big monster uses 12mm eyes, but I used 9mm eyes for the smaller monster.
• Are you confused about what size in millimeters your crochet hook is? You might want to check out a conversion chart. This is especially helpful if you’re reading a pattern that’s from a different country than you.

And remember, amigurumi are about having fun… so don’t worry too much about the exact hook size! If the little animal you’re making looks good in the yarn that you chose, then go with it!