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Mod-O-Pear Coin Purse in Ball Claps Frame

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Ball clasp frame purse is popular during the 60′s and 70′s, it was a “must” for a girl to own a frame purse. I still remember my mum have at least 2 but they seems “rotten” in my memory but she still used it when we were young. Sentimental value that counts or perhaps it is so easy and convenient to open and close with just a 2-finger twist and pinch!

I am so happy with the great response on the pear purse sewing kit giveaway which is ending this 7 Oct 2011. Please enter now to win 1 of the 8 sewing kits in the giveaway. [The giveaway is now closed]. And, if you are not aware of, this pear fabric was Craft Passion’s design and it is not for sale yet.

Pattern:
Download pattern here.

Materials:
1. Main fabric [pear print] – 12″ x 6″
2. Base fabric [dark green] – 4″ x 12″
3. Lining Fabric – 9″ x 12″
4. Batting [with iron-on adhesive] – 8″ x 12″
5. Ball Clasp Metal Frame [sewn type]- Arch shaped, 8.5 cm
6. Cotton cord – 2″
7. Cardboard or letter size paper
8. Sewing thread
9. Strong sewing thread

Tools:
1. Sewing machine with normal presser foot
2. Sewing needle and pins
3. Pencil & marker
4. Erasable fabric marker
5. Iron
6. Add seam allowance tool
7. Blunt tip tweezers

Seam Allowance:
7mm or approx. 1/4″

Finished Dimension:
5 1/4″ (W) x 5 1/4″ (H) x 1 3/4″ (D)

Download the Mod-O-Pear Purse sewing pattern in pdf document and print it with your printer.
Feed the letter size paper into your printer and print the patten without setting any scale on the printing.
{the pdf download will either open in new tab or open a small window asking you to save it as file. If you can’t find the saved file in your computer, the default folder usually is in “/downloads”}
{If you can’t download the pdf pattern, probably you don’t have acrobat reader, download the latest version for free, here.}

Get ready all the materials as mentioned above.
Trace the pattern onto the wrong side of the fabric and add at least 7mm or 1/4″ seam allowance.
Mark frame markings on the fabric too.
Cut fabric now or after attaching the batting.
Trace pattern on batting with marker on non-adhesive side. No seam allowance needed.
Cut the batting along the inside of the tracing lines to get the correct shape and size.

Pin the batting onto the wrong side of the traced fabric with adhesive side down.
Turn the pinned fabric to the right side and press with medium heat iron to bond the batting to the wrong side of the fabric.
Increase the heat level if the batting cannot bond well on the fabric.
Do not iron directly on the batting, the heat will melt the material.

Sew purse to base, from marking “B” to marking “B”.
When attaching another side of the purse fabric, sew from marking “A” to marking “A”, matching markings “B to the ends of the base.
Clip curve at seam allowance.

Repeat sewing and clipping for both purse and lining.
Leave a 2″ opening at the lining for turning the purse right side out later.

Insert lining into purse, right side facing each other. Align markings. Sew the top edge from marking “A” to “A”.
Turn the purse right side out from the opening on the lining.
Smooth out seam and top stitch near the top edge.

Mark the center line on the top edge.
Align the metal frame center line to the purse center line. Align the metal frame end points to the frame marking on the purse. Back stitch with strong thread to install the metal frame to the purse.
This tutorial might be helpful for frame installation.
The purse’s top edge is slightly bigger than the metal frame, evenly spread the extra across the frame while sewing to achieve a nice curve for the pear’s purse.
[You can use the normal glue & clamp type of frame if you cannot find the sewn type.]

Sew the leaf fabrics together with right side facing each other.
Make a small cut of about 1/2″ on the non-batting side.
Turn the leaf right side out from the small opening by using a pair of tweezers.

Smooth out seam and mend to close the opening.

Top stitch on the right side to decorate the leaf with veins.

Sew the leaf on the purse to complete the Mod-O-Pear Coin Purse.

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Mic-O-Pear Metal Frame Coin Purse

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This pear purse has been in my to-do-list ever since I designed the pear fabric, just that I keep on procrastinating due to the overflown ideas and projects in hand. I am playing catching up lately… Sorry to keep you all waiting for the release of this pattern and tutorial. Finally, I am glad that I have got it done perfectly as the way I like.

In line with the design, I also created another pear purse, the Mod-O-Pear coin purse, tutorial and pattern to follow.

Here is the tutorial to sew a ball clasp metal frame coin purse of Mic-O-Pear….

[ If you would like to win the supplies and kit to sew the Mic-O-Pear, I have 8 sets to giveaway, enter the giveaway draw before 7 Oct 2011. Closed ]

Pattern:
Download pattern here.

Materials:
1. Fabric – 2 colors [20" x 9" each] or 3 colors [14" x 9" each]
2. Batting [with iron-on adhesive] – 14″ x 8″
3. Metal Frame [sewn type]- Arch shaped, 8.5 cm
4. Cotton cord – 2″
5. Cardboard or letter size paper
6. Sewing thread
7. Strong sewing thread

Tools:
1. Sewing machine with normal presser foot
2. Sewing needle and pins
3. Pencil & marker
4. Erasable fabric marker
5. Iron
6. Add seam allowance tool
7. Blunt tip tweezers

Seam Allowance:
7mm or approx. 1/4″

Finished Dimension:
5″ (W) x 6″ (H)

Download the Mic-O-Pear Purse sewing pattern in pdf document and print it with your printer.
Feed the letter size paper into your printer and print the patten without setting any scale on the printing.
{the pdf download will either open in new tab or open a small window asking you to save it as file. If you can’t find the saved file in your computer, the default folder usually is in “/downloads”}
{If you can’t download the pdf pattern, probably you don’t have acrobat reader, download the latest version for free, here.}

Get ready all the materials as mentioned above.
For purse making, normally I will make a pattern template using a cardboard so it is easy to trace, add seam allowance and can be used repeatedly.

Trace the pattern onto the wrong side of the fabric and add at least 7mm or 1/4″ seam allowance.
Mark frame markings on the fabric too.
For fabrics that has directional print, the narrower side of the the pattern is the top and the wider side is the bottom.
For fabrics with no directional print, reverse the template in tracing to reduce fabric wastage.

Trace pattern on batting with marker on non-adhesive side. No seam allowance needed. Trace them close to each other and in reverse order to reduce wastage.

Cut the batting along the inside of the tracing lines to get the correct shape and size.
Pin the batting onto the wrong side of the traced fabric with adhesive side down.
Only 6 pcs of the fabrics need batting, lining fabrics don’t need batting.

Turn the pinned fabric to the right side and press with medium heat iron to adhere the batting.
Increase the heat level if the batting cannot bond well on the fabric.
Do not iron directly on the batting, the heat will melt the material.

Cut the pattern out from the fabric [with seam allowance] after attaching the batting.
Note that, for this 3-color design, 2 of each color will have batting on them, the other 2 are without batting which act as lining.
For 2-color design, 3 of each color will have batting on them and vice-versa.

Pin and sew to join 3 fabrics to make a half pear.
Make 3 little snips at seam allowance on the narrow waist of the pear.
Press seam allowance to the center piece, top stitch near the seam to set it in place.

Repeat the sewing to make a pair with batting [top] and a pair without batting / lining [bottom].

Place a batting piece on a lining piece with right side facing each other.
Align, pin and sew around. Leave a 1 1/2″ opening for turning the right side out.

Turn right side out, smooth and align seams.
Sew to close the opening.
Top stitch near the edge.
Repeat to make another half pear.

Combine 2 half pears and slip stitch from frame marking to frame marking.
Perform back-loop slip stitch a.k.a backstitch in hidden stitch, will make the seam more durable.

Mark the center line on the top edge.
Aligned the metal frame center line to the purse center line. Aligned the metal frame end points to the frame marking on the purse. Back stitch with strong thread to install the metal frame to the purse.
This tutorial might be helpful for frame installation.
The purse’s top edge is slightly bigger than the metal frame, evenly spread the extra across the frame while sewing to achieve a nice curve for the pear’s neck.
[You can use the normal glue & clamp type of frame if you cannot find the sewn type.]

Sew the pear stem onto the purse.          

Sew the leaf fabrics together with right side facing each other.
Make a small cut of about 1/2″ on the non-batting side.
Turn the leaf right side out from the small opening by using a pair of tweezers.

Smooth out seam and mend to close the opening.

Top stitch on the right side to decorate the leaf with veins.

Sew the leaf on the purse to complete the Mic-O-Pear Purse.

About a month ago, I was having a chat with Sumay, my dear friend, via facebook. She was telling me that she is going to help raise funds for a charity with a party. She was extremely excited about it and told me it is for Rumah Nur Salam which shelters street and stateless children in Kuala Lumpur. She asked me if I wanted to contribute my craft as one of the auction items in this event… “Yes, why not!!!” I replied immediately, it would be so meaningful to contribute my handmade craft for such a good cause.  So, we discussed over the net, brain storming which type of craft should I do, what kind of design and how to make it worth the value in the auction etc…. Since my expertise is in handbag or purse-making, especially ball clasp closure frames clutch, we decided to go with it. This brain storming session for the handbag design took a few days and not only involving Sumay and I, my sister who is also gifted in hand crafts contributed some of her brain juices too….. If you know me long enough, you will know that I am a perfectionist. I have to make sure that all my handmades are perfectly handicrafted, is a one-of-a-kind, limited edition, master-piece, and most importantly, if possible, who ever owns it will be so proud of it…..

I was under great stress for a week during the early stage of the brain storming because I couldn’t find  one design which I was perfectly satisfied with. I almost brokedown into tears as I seemed to have lost my direction and inspirations. I took a car-ride that day just to grab some fresh air and to clear my mind. I stopped in front of a shopping mall, suddenly the inspiration struck me when I saw a girl wearing a nice skirt and walked pass my car. The way she walks is so nice, elegant and simply…. CLASSY…., would it be good if I can make a handbag that resembles this style???? I quickly drove back with the new design in my head as I had no pen and paper in my car to sketch it down immediately. Phew, luckily I didn’t lose my train of thought while travelling back home which took about 45 minutes!!! Needless to say, once I reached home, the first thing i did was to dive into my craft room, sketch it down and begin the creation of “The Dazzle”. I chose my most favourite fabric which is no longer available from the shop and decided to use it.

On the same day I designed and drew out the handbag’s paper pattern. Next step is to get it decorated and sewn-up. Sound easy, right…. not at all, coming up with a good paper pattern is not as easy as I wrote over here, gasp!!!!

I want my handbag to get a little glimmer so I put some iron-on rhinestones on it. I like the glittery look on the handbag but I am very careful that I don’t dominate the handbag design by overdoing it.

Next,  I sewed some beads and sequins onto the flower prints. Only some of the flowers, not all, again I don’t want to overdo it and make it too sparkly!!!!!

I added leather and some metal buttons to create a bit of edginess to the soft design of  the beads and flowers. The photo shown below is the front and back of the handbag that hadn’t seamed up yet. I purposely took this photo to let you compare the effect of with and without the metal buttons on the leather I had both sides embellished to make them look identical….

A close-up look on the metal buttons…. they are not only used on bags but also on jeans, jackets and boots too. Look at the hand-sewn stitches of the leather… I used a 4-hole diamond tip awl (leather puncher) which I specially imported from Japan, hammered it on the leather to create a line of equally spaced guide holes, and sewed them with special leather needle and thread.  After having all the necessary embellishment done, sewed the side and bottom up, set it aside and move on to the the internal lining of the bag.

I didn’t capture photos on the process of the interlining as I was running out of time (and daylight too, was doing it in the middle of the night) and rushing to finish it.  Anyway, I used gold satin fabric to make the lining and added a zip pocket and 2 slips pockets in it.

As usual, I hand-embroidered my own label ” Craft Passion” and sewed it on the top of the zip pocket

Sewed them up and attached the sewable  ball clasp closure frame, fitted the chain straps, I thought I was done with the handbag!!!! But….. yes, I feel something is missing here…. I still feel that the handbag is too “empty”, I need something to boost it’s image!!!! So…..

I designed and crocheted a 5 petals flower to match with the flower print on the fabric as an add-on. Put 2 types of fastener at the back -  a brooch pin and a rubber band to make it into a brooch and/or hair band. It is flexible, you can use it as an embellishment on “The Dazzle”, pin it on your outfit  or tie it on your hair….

Consider all done and get ready to send it to the fundraising event organiser to get it auctioned???? No, not yet, not up to my standard without a proper packing!!!!

Below are some of the gift tags I made, chose one and tied it on.

Then, I sewed a semi-transparent red dust bag to store “The Dazzle” in and  beaded “Craft Passion” as the label!!!

ALL DONE!!! This time is for real!!! I packed them into the box, gasp, inhaled strongly just before closing the box, but I stopped. I took out “The Dazzle”, held it and looked at it until I am satisfied, put it into the box, sighed a while, took it out again, looked again, held it again, put it back again, repeated over and over again…. I told myself, since it is out for a good cause, I have to let go. I quickly sealed the box and couriered it to Sumay the next morning before I changed my mind.

That is the story from 2-3 weeks ago!!! Now, it is time to gear myself up for the fundraising party. Yup, I am going to the party and I want to witness how the auction goes with my heart and soul handmade – “The Dazzle”.  I want to see who is the lucky bidder to win “The Dazzle” and I want to take a photo with him/her.

Till the next time, watch-out my next post for the report!!!!

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Monkey Frame Cluth Purse Pattern & Tutorial

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{Get full details on next page.}

I made another frame clutch handbag, I am really crazy about it and I will continue to do this type of bag and purse for a while. My first frame clutch handbag is LEAVE motif, but this time it is in the theme of FLOWER….. This is a tougher project and took more of my time as I faced some obstacles throughout the process.
The problem with frame clutch is that the metal frame plus the clasp ball is heavy and that doesn’t allow the bag to stand up straight. In order to make the structure firm, I ironed a layer of adhesive interfacing onto the upper part of the bag (plain brown colour fabric) to strengthen it’s upright position.

Next, I had to put something on the blank area just to decorate it so that it won’t look empty and boring.
Same as what I did to the LEAVE frame clutch handbag, I sewed the outline of the flower to make it look embossed likt those in patchworks.

If you missed my previous post on how to make the handbag, please click here to go there.