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Sewing: Short Pants {With Free Pattern & Tutorial}

This probably is the most “luxurious” & comfortable weekend shorts I have ever made for myself -  “The Weekender“. It is a fully lined above-the-knee shorts with elastic waistband. The underlining makes the shorts so stable that it prevents the tendency of “seating” through wear and also hiding away underwear lines. I love the structure it gave because I find the “seat” is very “unsightly” and “untidy”, just imagine, excessive crumples across the thigh-line, not mentioning the “view”of underwear lines, yucks!!!!

The master copy of this pattern came from a shorts I bought many years ago, a famous 4 alphabets brand that starts with a “N”. It was just an ordinary 1 layer shorts without underlining but priced sky-highly (oh yeah, I know I know, I have to pay for the name too). One thing I like about it is, it’s comfortable with nice cutting…. at least my tummy looks “flat” when wearing it (this is why I bought it in the first place… LOL). With some modifications to add in underlining, hidden pockets and decorative hems, it is now my most favorite weekend shorts of all. I wouldn’t stop at making only one!

Get the free pattern and tutorial to make this weekender shorts after this jump:

Pattern suits US size: 8-10 or hip measurement: 38-40″

Sewing skill: Advance beginner

Material:

1. Fabric (Main A – polka dot): 1¼ yard (42″ wide quilting weight cotton)
2. Fabric (Main B – stripe): ½ yard (42″ wide quilting weight cotton)
3. Lining (white): 1 yard (42″ wide quilting weight cotton)
4. 1″ wide elastic band, length: approx. 3″ lesser than wearer’s waist measurement.
5. Matching color sewing thread

Tools:

1. Sewing machine
2. Letter size printer & 14 pcs of letter size paper & glue
or, A0 size printer & 1 pc of A0 size paper
3. Hot iron
4. Scissors
5. Sewing kits
6. Carbon and tracing wheel

Download the pdf pattern and print it out without scaling the printing, otherwise the size won’t be correct.
For A0 size paper printing, click here (1 page).
For letter size paper printing, click here (14 pages). Glue pages together according to the numbers indicated on the corners.
Cut the patterns out.
{If you can’t download the pdf pattern, probably you don’t have acrobat reader, download the latest version for free here.}

Fold the fabric lengthwise to become double layer with wrong side facing each other. Place the paper pattern on top of it, pin.
Cut fabric out according to the pattern (including seam allowance).
Trace sewing lines and markings on the fabric by using carbon and tracing wheel.

Sew to join pocket Y & Z. Press with seam allowance facing pocket Y. Top stitch on right side near the sewing line.

Place the pocket (with right side down) on the front pattern. Align the pocket markings & pin. Sew from mark to mark. Snip the seam allowance on the markings.

Turn, press & top stitch near the pocket edge & ¼” from it.
Repeat the process on the other side of the front pattern.
Set aside.

Place pocket Y on front lining, align marking. Fold seam allowance (right) and double top stitch it.
You may top stitch a line at the center of the pocket Y.
Baste side seam.
Repeat the process on the other side of the front lining pattern.

Place pocket assembly (the the front pattern) on the lining, right side facing each other. Align the marking.
Zig-zag stitch along the pocket curve & straight stitch on the top edge.

Flip the lining so that it is on the wrong side of the front assembly, align all markings, baste on the seam allowance.
Check and make sure the pocket opening is away from the sewing line.
Baste back linings to back patterns as well.
{Tip: Don’t baste on the sewing lines but a little away from it so that taking them off later is easier and neater.}

Pin, sew & press the hems to the front and back patterns.
Fold top seam of the hem down, center up and bottom seam allowance down, sew the side seam of the hem.
Slit on the seam allowance of the split hem marking.

Turn the hem right side out & adjust the corner, press.

Place front and back patterns with right side facing each other, align marking, pin & sew on the side seam.
Take note with reaching the pocket opening, make sure the opening is not caught in the sewing.
Mock flat fell seam or Welt seam the side.
For mock flat fell seam, you can either zig-zag stitch or overlock the raw edges.

Finish the split on the hem with narrow satin stitch.

Place both assembled front and back pieces together with right side facing, align marking, pin and sew on the center seams.
Finish with either mock flat fell or welt seam.

Press the top seams of the hem down, and bottom seam up.
Align crotch point and inseams, pin and sew. Neaten the raw edges by either zig-zag stitch or overlock them with serger.
Remove all baste stitches.

Top stitch the hem near the top edge, below the seam line.

Fold waistband down with seam allowance hiding inside, press, pin and sew. Leave a 2½” opening at the back portion of the waist for elastic insertion.
Top stitch approx. 1/8″ from the top edge of the waistband.
Insert the elastic band into the pocket by using a safety pin.

Overlap 1″ of the elastic ends, zig-zag stitch 2 vertical rows to join them up.

Sew to close the opening. Spread the waistband over the elastic so that it is even. Pin to secure the position.
Set the sewing machine to the longest stitch space, stretch the elastic & sew at ¼” from the bottom sew line.

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