Purse Organizer Insert With Adjustable Divider

Instructions

Materials:

Quantities are in approximate value as they depend on your bag dimension.
Mine is an oversize tote / hobo bag (scroll down for the last photo to view how big is the bag).

Seam Allowance: 1/2″

MORE DETAILS ON HOW TO SEW PURSE ORGANIZER INSERT

1. a. Measure your bag dimension, Width (A), Depth (C) and your preferred insert height (B).
   b. Choose a lighter bag so that it won’t burden your shoulder too much and thus affect your traveling or photography outings.
   
   
   
2. a. Draft out the organizer insert pattern with some simple calculations.
   b. Align velcro position at 1/2″ from top and bottom. The length don’t have to go all the way to the side margin but if you prefer it is fine. I made mine 2″ to 3″ lesser.
   
   
   
3. a. Cut fabric 2″ larger than the width and height of the organizer insert pattern.
   b. Cut 1 or 2 layers battings slightly bigger than the fabric. The thicker the batting, the better the padded protection.
   c. Cut another piece of muslin or cotton about the same size as the batting.
   
   
   
4. a. Stake layers with fabric on top, battings, then muslin as the bottom piece.
   b. Secure the layers with pins or special quilting safety pins.
   c. Draw a 45 line at the center and another line right-angle of it.
   
   
   
5. a. Start quilting from the center with a walking foot and a guide. You can use normal foot if you don’t have a walking foot but I would advise investing a walking foot as it “walks” better on thick sewing.
   b. Quilt at 5/8″ spacing.
   c. Roll up any access fabrics during quilting will make the process easier to handle.
   
   Note that 2 layers of batting are quite thick to handle.
   
   
   
6. Quilted piece is thick and will shrink a little from the original size. that’s why you need to have a bigger piece to begin with.
   
   
   
   
7. a. Draw the pattern on the quilted piece, add 1/2″ seam allowance.
   b. Cut out the pattern with seam allowance.
   
   
   
8. a. Align 4 strips of velcro (loop side) at the correct positions.
   b. Sew near to the edge, around.
   
   
   
9. a. Sew both sides with correct seam allowance (1/2″), then sew the base.
   b. Repeat the same on the other side.
   This completes the internal piece of the organizer insert.
   
   
   
10. a. Cut 2 pieces (1 piece is in inverted direction) of hard-woven interfacing in a shape of “T” from the pattern.
    b. Place the interfacing on the wrong side of the external fabric, with the adhesive side facing down and overlapping at the base.
    c. Iron to adhere the interfacing to the fabric.
    
    
    
11. a. Turn to the right side, and decorate with ribbon or twill tape.
    b. You may add some slip pockets to increase storage to keep small belongings.
    
    
    
12. Sew both sides with the correct seam allowance (1/2″), then sew the base.
    This completes the external piece of the purse organizer insert.
    
    
    
13. a. Slot the internal piece into the external piece. Align the corners and side seams.
    b. Trim the top edges with zero seam allowance.
    c. Finish the edges with bias tape binding or twill header binding.
    
    
    
14. Again, do some maths for the divider’s pattern.
    
    Note that the velcro doesn’t have to be the full height of the divider. Hook velcro length is the height from the top of the 1st loop velcro to the bottom of the 2nd velcro, enough to attach to the loop side on the insert.
    
    
    
15. a. Cut the fabric double the height, full width of the pattern and add at least 1/2″ for the seam allowances.
    b. Batting, about the same size of the pattern but double in height too.
    Muslin needs to be slightly larger than the batting.
    c. Place them in order.
    d. Turn to right side and quilt as the previous process.
16. a. Fold the quilted divider into halve with right side facing each other. Sew sides and trim to 1/2″ seam allowance.
    b. Turn the divider right side out, adjust the corners so that they look nice and square.
    c. Sew 2 lines at the batting edges, then sew velcro (hook side) on the divider.
    d. Insert a plastic card or double layer of hard-woven interfacing with rounded corners into the pocket.
    e. Trim the top edge to zero seam allowance.
    
    
    
17. a. Sew binding to the top edge of the divider. I am using twill/header tape as the binder, I sew directly on the right side of the divider and the tape with 1/2 width down the edge.
    b. Leave at least 1/2″ allowance at both ends.
    
    
    
18. Fold the tape end with slightly tapering, then fold in the side.
    
    
    
19. Fold down the tape and hand stitch along the first stitching line.
    
    
    
20. Repeat the same process to make another 1 or 2 (depending on how many you want to divide your purse organizer insert).
    
    
    
21. Bend and fold the velcro side of the divider and attach it to the purse organizer insert.
    This completes the whole purse organizer insert with an adjustable divider.
    
    
    

Put all your necessary belongings into the purse organizer insert for easy access, in and out of the bag. It is stable even if your bag is soft and slouchy; thus, it is good for heavier items such as a camera and filled water tumbler.

Me holding the bag with the organizer insert in the tote hobo bag during a recent trip to Taiwan, soaking my feet in the hot spring water.
I used it to keep my precious DSLR camera, lens, some photography accessories, water tumbler, umbrella, maps, purse, scarf, etc…. I am happy that I sewed it and brought it there, it makes my traveling so convenient.

Thanks to my friend, Yenny, who took this pretty photo of me.