Another pullover knit pattern is here to share with you all, the Raglan Pullover, perfect for the cold wintertime. From the beginning of the year, I have been busy with knitting projects. This pullover sweater is one of them which I have designed and knitted for myself.
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Raglan Pullover Knitting Pattern
scroll ⬇️ to get the free knitting pattern & tutorial
This raglan pullover knitting pattern is relatively easier to knit compared to the previous shawl collar cable stitch pullover I have knitted for my husband. If you have basic garment knitting experience, this knit pullover that uses only Stockinette Stitch should be easy as well as a great knitting project for you.
Honestly speaking, I find that knitting a plain stockinette stitch garment is a bit boring to me, thus, I applied colorwork design for this pullover. In this case, adding stripes on both the shoulders, arms, and part of the body was my crafty idea. I really love how the effect of the stripes has turned out, not to mention the dotted line on the front and back pieces, do you see what I see? There are rows of adorable mini hearts on the raglan pullover
The weather is hot and humid here and I could barely stand the heat to wear the pullover and pose for photographers, even with a full swing of the air conditioner. However, I will wear it for my upcoming snowy vacation in Hokkaido, hopefully, my modeling photo will turn out awesome to allow me to update here.
That’s for now. More knitting projects to come after I am back from my sub-zero snowy vacation.
Happy Knitting!
Raglan Pullover Knitting Pattern
Another free pullover knitting pattern to share with you all. This time is it a Raglan Pullover Sweater with stripes on the shoulder which is a unisex design that suits men and women.
To Fit Chest / Bust: 30, 36, 40, 44, 48 and 56 inch
Actual Measurement: 37, 40, 44, 49, 55 and 63 inch
Perfect for the cold wintertime.
Enjoy knitting them!
Download and print separately: Dimension diagram (in pdf)
Materials
- Yarn: Lion Brand Wool Ease 80% acrylic, 20% wool (approx. 197 yards/180m per 85g ball) - Yarn A Color: Seaspray, Balls needed: 5 (5; 5; 6; 6; 6) balls
- Yarn: Lion Brand Wool Ease 80% acrylic, 20% wool (approx. 197 yards/180m per 85g ball) - Yarn B Color: Chestnut Heather, Balls needed: 1 ball
Tools
- Needles: 36″ Circular needle U.S. 7 (4.5mm) and U.S. 8 (5mm)
- Needles: 8″ Circular needle U.S. 7 (4.5mm)
- Stitch Markers
- Tapestry needle
Instructions
Size: (Figures in square brackets refer to larger sizes)
To Fit Chest / Bust: 30 [36; 40; 44; 48; 56] inch / 76 [91.5; 101.5; 111.5; 122; 142] cm
Actual Measurement: 37 [40; 44; 49; 55; 63] inch / 94 [103; 113; 124.5; 140; 160] cm
Length From Shoulder: 24.5 [25; 25; 25.5; 26; 26.5] inch / 62 [63.5; 63.5; 65; 66; 67.5] cm
Sleeve Seam: 18 inch / 46 cm
Tension Gauge:
Stockinette Stitch: 18 sts and 24 rows = 4″ (10cm) using U.S. 8 (5mm) needles.
Take time to make a gauge swatch to check your tension. Wash and block your swatch before measuring. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Instruction:
The instructions are written for the smallest size. If changes are necessary for larger size(s) the instructions will be written thus [ ]. Numbers for each size are shown in the same order throughout the pattern. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
Abbreviations:
alt = Alternate(ing)
beg = Beginning
cont = Continue
dec = Decrease(ing)
foll = Following
k = Knit
inc = Increase(ing)
mp = make 1 purl-wise
P = Purl
patt = Pattern
P2tog = Purl next 2 stitches together
P2tog tbl = Purl next 2 stitches together through back loops, watch video on the how-to
rem = Remaining
rep = Repeat
RS = Right Side
ssk = Slip next 2 stitches knitwise one at a time. Pass them back onto left-hand needle, then knit through back loops together.
sl = slip
st(s) = Stitch(es)
WS = Wrong Side
BACK
Using U.S. 7 (4.5mm) needles and yarn A, 2×2 tubular cast on 82 [90; 98; 106; 118; 130] sts. (Watch video on how to do 2×2 tubular cast-on)
Row 1 (RS): k2, (p2,k2) to end.
Row 2: p2, (k2, p2) to end.
Rep these 2 rows of 2×2 rib for 2.25″ (6cm), ending after Row 1. (about 15 rows excluding the formation rows of 2×2 tubular cast-on)
Next Row: p13 [15; 16; 9; 8; 5], *mp, p28 [30; 33; 22; 17; 10], rep from * to last 13 [15; 16; 9; 8; 5] sts, mp, p to end. 85 [93; 101; 111; 125; 143] sts.
Change to U.S.8 (5mm) needles and proceed in stockinette st with alternate yarn A (1 st) and B (1 st) for 1 row on the 7th row then on every 9th row, until work from beg measures approx 16″ / 40.5cm, ending after a purl row (80 rows of stockinette st has been worked).
Shape Raglan
Continue with yarn A only. Bind off loosely 2 [2; 3; 3; 4; 4] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 81 [89; 95; 105; 117; 135] sts rem.
1st row (RS): k2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
2nd row: p2, p2tog, purl to last 4 sts, p2togtbl, p2.
Work these 2 rows 0 [0; 0; 0; 4; 14] times. 81 [89; 95; 105; 101; 79] sts rem.
Next row: as 1st row
Next row: as 2nd row
Next row: as 1st row
Next row: purl to end
Work these 4 rows 0 [2; 2; 6; 5; 4] times. 81 [77; 83; 69; 71; 55] sts rem.**
Next row: as 1st row
Next row: purl to end
Work these 2 rows 24 [22; 24; 17; 17; 9] times. 33[33; 35; 35; 37; 37] sts rem.
Bind off loosely.
FRONT
Work as of BACK to **.
1st row (RS): k2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
2nd row: purl to end
Work these 2 rows 15 [13; 15; 8; 8; 0] times. 51[53; 53; 53; 55; 55] sts rem.
Shape Neck
Next row (RS): k2, ssk, k10, k2tog (neck edge). Turn. Leave rem sts on a spare needle.
Next row: purl to end.
Dec 1 st at the raglan edge (as before) and dec 1 st at neck edge on next and alt rows until there are 4 sts rem.
Next row (WS): purl to end
Next row: ssk, k2tog
Next row: p2
Next row: ssk. Fasten off.
With RS facing, join yarn to rem sts, bind off 19 [21; 21; 21; 23; 23] sts. ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Next row: purl to end.
Dec 1 st at neck edge and dec 1 st at the raglan edge (as before) on next and alt rows until there are 4 sts rem.
Next row (WS): purl to end
Next row: ssk, k2tog
Next row: p2
Next row: k2tog. Fasten off.
SLEEVES (knit 2)
Using U.S. 7 (4.5mm) needles, 2×2 tubular cast on 38 [38; 42; 42; 46; 46] sts.
Work in 2×2 rib as on BACK for 2.125″ (5.5 cm), ending after Row 1. (about 13 rows excluding the formation rows of 2×2 tubular cast-on)
Next Row: p4 [4; 3; 3; 5; 5], *mp, p5 [5; 6; 6; 6; 6], rep from * to last 4 [4; 3; 3; 5; 5], mp, p to end. 45 [45; 49; 49; 53; 53] sts rem.
Change to U.S.8 (5mm) needles and proceed in stockinette st. Work 12 rows.
Inc 1 st at beg and end of next row and following 6th [4th; 4th; 4th; 4th; 4th] rows until there are 67 [59; 63; 81; 83; 85] sts.
Inc 1 st at beg and end of next row and following 0 [6th; 6th; 0; 0; 0] rows until there are 67 [73; 77; 81; 83; 85] sts.
Cont until work from beg measure 15.5″ (92 rows) after the ribbing.
Shape Raglan
Stripe patt (worked in stockinette stitch):
With Yarn B, work 4 rows
With Yarn A, work 2 rows
Begin Strip patt. Bind off loosely 2 [2; 3; 3; 4; 4] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 63 [69; 71; 75; 75; 77] sts rem.
1st row (RS): k2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
2nd row: p2, p2tog, purl to last 4 sts, p2togtbl, p2.
3rd row: as 1st row
4th row: purl to end
Work these 4 rows 3 [4; 3; 3; 1; 2] times. 45 [45; 53; 57; 69; 65] sts rem.
Next row: as 1st row
Next row: purl to end
Work these 2 rows 18 [18; 22; 23; 29; 27] times. Bind off loosely rem 9 [9; 9; 11; 11; 11] sts.
BLOCKING
Block each piece of work as soon as it is done and before joining up.
Diagram (Click Picture for a larger chart, open in new tab. Or, download pdf version here.)
Neckband
Join raglan seams.
With RS work facing you and using U.S. 7 (4.5mm) shorter needles, pick up 7 [7; 7; 9; 9; 9] sts from left sleeve. Pick up 15 sts down left front neck edge. Pick up 19 [21; 21; 21; 23; 23] from front neck edge. Pick up 15 sts up right front neck edge. Pick up 7 [7; 7; 9; 9; 9] sts from right sleeve. Pick up 31 [31; 33; 33; 35; 35] sts from back. 92 [96; 96; 108; 104;104] sts rem. Place stitch marker.
Work 9 rows of 2×2 ribbing in a round. Bind off in ribbing.
TO FINISH OFF
Join side and Sleeve seams.
MORE DETAILS ON HOW TO KNIT
RAGLAN PULLOVER
- For the yarn, I used Lion Brand Wool-Ease (details as shown in the materials list above) but you can use a similar yarn which you can obtain the same tension gauge.
Though the main needles are written as 36″ circular needles, they can be replaced by straight needles to replace the long circular needle (except 8″ circular needle). Circular needles are recommended because they are lighter and more flexible, great for knitting bigger project like sweater and pullover. - This is the back piece of the raglan pullover which has been blocked and adjusted to the corresponding size.
- Similarly, the front piece which is also blocked to size.
- Lastly, these are the 2 blocked sleeves with stripe pattern at the raglan section.
- The picture shows the seam of the raglan after the front and the sleeve is sewn up. If you are new to joining a raglan sleeve, this video will be helpful. Please take note: because this pattern has 2 knit stitches before/after the ssk/k2tog on the raglan slope, hence the raglan seam appeared to be 4 diagonal lines after seaming up, whilst the video only has 2 diagonal lines, but the method is the same.
- After that, pick up stitches along the neckline in preparation to knit 2×2 ribbing for the neckband.
- Finally, sew up the sleeve seams and side seams with mattress seam to complete the raglan pullover.
Notes
Yarn amounts given are based on average requirements and are approximated.
Recommended Products
Purchase the exact same material used in this pattern from Craft Passion Shop. As an Amazon Associate and member of other affiliate programs, I earn from qualifying purchases.
hi – I am working on this and i’m confused about some of the sizing in brackets.
where it says p13[15;16;9;20;13] – why are the middle and last sizes smaller than the preceding size? I see this in a lot of the instructions – thanks!
It is a typo, we have got it corrected. Didn’t know that the typo has been there for so many years and no one pointed it out. Thank you so much for highlight it to us.
Can I knit this jumper on straight needles instead of circular needles??? Im a novice knitter and just want a simple knit.
thanks
Margot
Yes, you may use straight needles for the pieces. Either you use circular needles or 3 double-point needles for the collar.
Dear Joanne,
This is a great pattern. I love it so far. Could you please explain to me what you meant by ‘blocking’ when you finish each piece. Did you mean ironing it? and make it flat? Thanks
Hi Winnie,
Yes, you are right, you can either dampen the piece with water then laying it flat to block or iron it with steam, depending on the yarn. For wool, I usually go for wet blocking. Just dampen the piece then place it on a towel, adjust the shape and leave it to dry.
Is this great classic style pattern suitable for men?
Yes, it is a unisex pattern 🙂
Hello,
I am unable to find 8” circular needles in this size. Can I use 9” for this pattern?
Yes, you may use 9″ as long as it fits into the size of the neckband.
Happy knitting.
Thank you.
I apologize, I am brand new to knitting. I read that you should use shorter length and never longer circular needles than you want your project to be but that’s is for working in the round.
I am struggling to find where to use which length needles.
Is the size 7 2×2 tubular cast on beginning the back and front the 8” circulars and then increased to the 36” when changing to the size 8 needles and finishing with the 36” size 7 needles?
Would it be better to use a shorter length than the 8” for the neckband rather than longer?
If the tubular cast on is not in the continuous round, you can use any length of circular needle as long as it can hold the number of stitches on it. The shorter size 7 needle is only needed for the neckband. You can use 9″ needle or smaller for the neckband if you can’t find an 8″ length needle, again, as long as it can hold the total number of stitches in it.
Hi
How do I actually get this pattern. I have pressed the “get pattern” button but it just flicks back to the original page
Try clicking the button again, it should work. I tried from it from both Chrome and Firefox, it is working fine.
Hi, I love your pattern, but I’m confused about the math for the front neck shaping. If I do the decreases until 4 sts rem. then how do I (WS )purl to end Next row: K2, ssk,K2tog wouldn’t I need 6 sts? What am I missing?
Thank you for pointing it out, there is a mistake in the pattern. I accidentally added the k2 in the pattern. I have gotten it corrected.
Thanks. I figured it out on my own, but wanted to ask just in case.
I love this pattern, I am confused about a stitch that calls for
p2togtbl, I am having a problem doing this stitch, is there anyway I can do that double edge just decreasing knitting/purling that makes the nice edge?
Also, I have knit many sweaters, doing raglan, I have never decreased on the purl row as your pattern describes, hope that doesn’t make the sweater too short?
thank you so much for any help
I have included a link on the youtube video (from Knit Purl Hunter) on how to do the p2togtbl stitch.
Hello!
I am currently working on my first sleeve and am a little confused. My sleeve length is already 15.5” and I still need to increase 9 more times. With an increase every 6th row, my sleeve will be 9” longer.
On your pictures it looks like you increased on both sides but your instructions only say to increase at the end of rows. Is that a mistake?
Thank you
Hi Tania, first of all please check if your tension is the same as stated in the pattern. I think of you still have 9 rows to complete after reaching 15.5″ then your knit is looser than the pattern.
My tension is exactly the same as your pattern. Your pattern says that I should have 92 rows after ribbing before staring the raglan shaping. However, increasing from 59 to 73 stitches every 6 rows is 84 rows. Which gives a total of 112 rows/18.5” after ribbing.
Hi Tania, It is to increase 1st at both beg and end of the row. I have rephrase the pattern with a proper instruction. Sorry for the confusion.
Thank you!
I love this sweater but I’m confused about the sleeve shape raglan next row as 1st row, next row purl to the end for 23 times I did it and did not get 11 rem st to bind off, and I am knitting a large do I cont. until I get 11 st?
I have checked the pattern and it is correct. I guessed that there must be a missing reduction in your knitting. Please DO NOT continue to knit until you get 11 sts, it will be off alignment to match the body part when joining up. If you are just 1 or 2 sts more than 11, just stop there after you have done all the rows, the most you will get is a slightly bigger collar instead of mis-align sleeve to the body. If you have way more sts left in your needle, I am sorry that you will have to to re-do after finding out where the mistake is.
It is a beautiful sweater but I am confused how to start the front panel does it connect to the tube that is started for the back?
I think you are confused with the tubular cast on video that I’ve linked up. The video is making a ribbing in tube, but, it is a flat piece in this pattern. So just don’t join up the ribbing shown in the video and work the rib in flat.
Hope I have answered your question.
Wonderful patterns thank-you so much for sharing
A very classic mixed model that one must always have in his projects! Thank you !
Great pattern for a comfy casual pullover. Thank you for sharing.