Happy New Year!!! On the very first day of the brand new 365 days of 2017, I am pleased to share with you my new knitting pattern on a Poinsettia Fair Isle Pullover (girl and boy version) which I have designed and knitted for my kids. I hope this pattern brings a whole new year of blessing to my readers, followers and visitors, may 2017 be a better year for you.
Fair Isle is a traditional knitting technique used to create patterns with multiple colors. This Poinsettia Fair Isle Pullover uses 3 colors to create a pattern and at any one time, the most only 2 colors are involved. The knit pattern uses circular and double pointed needles to knit top down in the round. It begins with a neck rib then extend to knit a yoke with Poinsettia Fair Isle pattern, followed by the body, lastly the sleeve. The Poinsettia Fair Isle pattern comes in 2 sizes, 8-10 years and 11-12 years. Photos and videos are included in the pattern to make it easier for you to understand.
Fair Isle Pullover (Children Size) – Free Knit Pattern
get the link below ⬇️
To be frank, I have been wanting to knit Fair Isle pullover for my kids, especially for a winter vacation abroad. During early last year, we finally decided to have our holiday in Japan: Hokkaido and Tokyo to be particular. Since we’ve planned it quite early, thus, I have ample time to design and knit this Poinsettia Fair Isle Pullover for my kids and also the cable pullover for him and a raglan pullover for me, together with other knit items to be published soon. Not to worry that you have leftover yarns for this fair isle pullover, I am going to publish the matched beanie hat (published) and leg warmers (published)soon that are using the same yarns.
Poinsettia Fair Isle Pullover
Children Size
Knitting Pattern
Difficulty: Intermediate
Download and print separately:
Tic-Tac-Toe with Poinsettia Color Pattern Chart(For Boy),
Heart with Poinsettia Color Pattern Chart (For Girl)
Dimension Diagram
Construction: Yoke, Work in Round, Top Down
Helpful video tutorial on Fair Isle Knitting and How to trap the floats
Size: (Figure in square brackets refer to larger sizes)
Children Age: 8-10 years [11-12 years]
Chest: 30 [32] inch / 76 [81] cm
Full Length: 24.5 [25.5] inch / 62.5 [65] cm
Sleeve Seam: 13 [14] inch / 33 [35.5] cm
Materials And Tools:
1. Yarn: Lion Brand Superwash Merino Yarn 100% Superwash Merino Wool (approx. 306 yards/280m per 100g ball)
- Yarn A Color: Dark Gray (Charcoal) or Red (Cayenne), Balls needed: 3 balls
- Yarn B Color: Gray (Hemp), Balls needed: 1 ball
- Yarn C Color: White (Ivory), Balls needed: 1 ball
2. Needles: 16″ and 24″ Circular needle U.S. 3 (3mm) and U.S. 6 (4mm).
3. Needles: Double Pointed needle U.S. 3 (3mm) and U.S. 6 (4mm).
4. Stitch Markers
5. Stitch holders, 4″
6. Tapestry needle
Note: Yarn amounts given are based on average requirements and are approximated. You should have leftover on the minority yarn color (yarn B and C) upon completion. Hence, if you are knitting for both Boy and Girl pullover, you need to buy only 1 set for Yarn B and C.
Tension Gauge:
Stockinette Stitch: 24 sts and 34 rows = 4″ (10cm) using U.S. 6 (4mm) needles
Take time to make a gauge swatch to check your tension. Wash and block your swatch before measuring. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Instruction:
The instructions are written for the smallest size. If changes are necessary for larger size(s) the instructions will be written thus [ ]. Numbers for each size are shown in the same order throughout the pattern. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
Abbreviations
alt = Alternate(ing)
beg = Beginning
cont = Continue
dec = Decrease(ing)
foll = Following
k = Knit
inc = Increase(ing)
m1 = make 1 increase (click to learn to make it)
P = Purl
patt = Pattern
rem = Remaining
rep = Repeat
RS = Right Side
sl = slip
st(s) = Stitch(es)
WS = Wrong Side
Knit Written Pattern
YOKE
Using U.S. 3 (3mm) needles and yarn A, 2×2 tabular cast on 104 [116] sts (watch video on how to do 2×2 tabular cast-on in round). Insert a stitch marker at the beg of round (= mid back).
Work 2×2 rib (k2, p2) in round for 1″ (2.5cm).
Change to short circular needle size U.S.6 (4mm).
Next round: k10 [15], *m1, k17 [29], rep from * to last 9 [14] sts, m1, k to end. 110 [120] sts.
Then work an elevation at the back in stockinette st as follows: k8 [10] sts, past marker, turn, tighten yarn and p16 [20], turn, tighten yarn and k24 [30], turn, continue by working 8 [10] st on every turn until a total of 80 [100] sts have been worked, turn and k 1 round until marker mid back again.
Then work Fair Isle patt (either Tic-Tac-Toe with Poinsettia for the boy, or Heart with Poinsettia for the girl) 11 [12] times. Change to a longer circular needle when there are enough sts.
When Fair Isle patt has been worked, there are 286 [312] sts on needle. The piece now measures approx. 7.75″ mid front (measured without the neck ribbing).
Cont to work with yarn A only.
Next round (only for 8-10 years): k11, *m1, k24, rep from * to last 11 sts, m1, k to end. 298 sts.
Next round (only for 11-12 years): k 1 round. 312 sts.
Work next round as follow: k44 [44], slip the next 62 [68] sts on a stitch holder for sleeve (without working them first), cast on 9 [12] new sts, k87 [88] (= front piece), slip the next 62 [68] sts on a stitch holder for sleeve (without working them first), cast on 9 [12] new sts, k43 [44] sts. 192 [200] sts rem on the circular needle.
BODY (Boy)
Cont in stockinette st for 8″ [9″] (approx. 66 [74] rounds). Work the following patt set as shown in Tic-Tac-Toe with Poinsettia color chart.
Round 1: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 2 to 4: A patt, rep patt to end
Round 5: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 6: B patt, rep patt to end
Round 7: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 8: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 9 to 11: A patt, rep patt to end
Round 12: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 13: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Only for 8-10 years: Round 14 to 19: Work on C patt for 3 times, then C’ patt, work on C patt for 10 times, then C’ patt, work on C patt for 4 times to end.
Only for 11-12 years: Round 14 to 19: C patt, rep patt to end.
Round 20: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 21: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 22 to 26: E patt, rep patt to end
Round 27: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 28: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 29: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 30 to 32: A patt, rep patt to end
Round 33: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 34: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Change to circular needle size U.S.3 (3mm) and with yarn B.
Next round: k8 [5], *m1, k16 [10], rep from * to last 8 [5] sts, m1, k to end. 204 [220] sts.
Then work 2×2 rib (k2, p2) for 1.75″. Tubular bind off.
BODY (Girl)
Cont in stockinette st for 12″ [13″] (approx. 100 [108] rounds).
Change to circular needle size U.S.3 (3mm),
Next round: k8 [5], *m1, k16 [10], rep from * to last 8 [5] sts, m1, k to end. 204 [220] sts.
Then work 2×2 rib (k2, p2) for 1.75″. Tubular bind off the 2×2 rib.
SLEEVE (Boy)
Slip sts from stitch holder to Double Pointed needle U.S. 6 (4mm), cast in additional 10 [12] sts mid under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of these sts) = 72 [80] sts. Cont in Stockinette st in a round with Yarn A.
Work 6 [7] rounds, then dec 1 st on each side of the marker of next round and following 10th rounds until you reach 76 [87] round. Work the following patt set as shown in Tic-Tac-Toe with Poinsettia. Cont to work until the patt is done.
Only for 8-10 years:
Round 77: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray) while dec 1st on each side of the marker. (56 sts rem)
Round 78 to 80: A patt, repeat patt to end
Round 81: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 82: B patt, repeat patt to end
Round 83: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 84: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 85 to 87: A patt, repeat patt to end
Round 88: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray) while dec 1st on each side of the marker. (54 sts rem)
Round 89: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 90 to 95: Work on C’ patt for 4 times, then C patt for 1 time to end
Round 96: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 97: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray) while dec 1st on each side of the marker. (52 sts rem)
Round 98 to 102: E patt, repeat patt to end
Round 103: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 104: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 105: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 106 to 108: A patt, repeat patt to end
Round 109: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 110: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Only for 11-12 years:
Round 88: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray) while dec 1st on each side of the marker. (62 sts rem)
Round 89 to 91: A patt, repeat patt to last 2 stitches, k2 in yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 92: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 93: B patt, repeat patt to end
Round 94: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 95: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 96 to 98: A patt, repeat patt to last 2 stitches, k2 in yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 99: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray) while dec 1st on each side of the marker. (60 sts rem)
Round 100: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 101 to 106: C patt, repeat patt to end.
Round 107: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 108: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray) while dec 1st on each side of the marker. (58 sts rem)
Round 109 to 113: E patt, repeat patt to last 2 stitches, k2 in Yarn C (white)
Round 114: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 115: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 116: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 117 to 119: A patt, repeat patt to last 2 stitches, k2 in yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 120: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 121: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Change to Double Pointed needle U.S. 3 (3mm) and with yarn B, work 2×2 rib (k2, p2) for 1.5″. Tubular bind off the 2×2 rib.
Rep the same on the other stitch holder of the sleeve.
SLEEVE (Girl)
Slip sts from stitch holder to Double Pointed needle U.S. 6 (4mm), cast in additional 10 [12] sts mid under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of these sts) = 72 [80] sts. Cont in Stockinette st in a round with Yarn A.
Work 6 [7] rounds, then dec 1 st on each side of the marker of next round and following 10th rounds until there are 52 [58] sts rem. Cont in Stockinette st for 5 rounds.
Work “Sleeve Color Segment Patt” for 8 rounds. Note: for 11-12 years, rep patt to last 2 stitches, k2 in yarn A (Dark Gray). Approx. 110 [121] rounds have been worked.
Change to Double Pointed needle U.S. 3 (3mm), work 2×2 rib (k2, p2) for 1.5″. Tubular bind off the 2×2 rib.
Rep the same on the other stitch holder of the sleeve.
TO FINISH OFF
Sew the openings under the sleeves.
BLOCKING
Block the pullover to obtain the correct size.
Dimension Diagram (Click Picture for a larger chart, open in new tab. Or, download pdf version here.)
More Details on how to knit the Fair Isle Pullover (Children Size)
This pullover pattern is knit from the top (start from neck rib) to bottom. The pic showed the pullover neck rid and the knitted elevation of the back.
The progress after completed the Fair Isle pattern and the yoke.
Begin to work on the body pattern.
Completed the body and waist rib.
Begin to work on the sleeve with a double pointed needle.
Completed the sleeve and the ribband.
Sewing up the openings (the extra cast on sts in the pattern for the body and sleeve) under the sleeve.
After sewing up the opening.
Repeat the same on the sleeve to complete the Fair Isle pullover.
Block the fair isle pullover to the correct size.
Please explain the elevation at the back.I am having a difficult time understanding the iinstructions.
Do you do a w&t?
Please find the answer to your previous question.
1. Are the calculations for the elevation at the back correct.
2. do you do a w&t.
3.what does it mean “continue by working 10 sts on every turn until a total of 100 sts. have been worked”
Do I start the 10 sts after the marker or before. I get 10 sts and then 20 sts. that makes sense but then I knit 30 sts. and then work 10 sts. It seems lop-sided. Please help. thank you
Let me try to elaborate more on the pattern in this way:
Let say at row 1 you knit 10 stitches from the mid back stitch marker, then make a turn (no w&t, just pull the yarn tight), followed by purl 20 stitches on row 2 (where you will reach the stitch marker after the 10th stitch, then continue to purl another 10 stitches to make up a total of 20 stitches). After that you turn again, row 3, to knit 10 to go back to the stitch marker, continue to knit 10+10 before turning, (the first 10 is knitting from row 2 stitches but the second 10 is actually knitting from row 1 stitches), this will give you 30 stitches in the row. When you do row 4, you purl 20 stitches to go back to the stitch marker, this time you purl 10 stitches from row 3 stitch, then add another 10 stitch purl from row 2 stitches. Do the same to the rest of the row in the manner until you have 100 stitches (50, stitch marker, 50) on the working needles.
Hope this helps in explaining how to do the elevation.
If you are still having problem with this section, feel free to send me a clear close-up photo on your work, email to [email protected].
Thanks for the beautiful pattern ilove it and begining to work for
my Daughter
Now i knit in chart but ihave tow question, the increase in round 1 or 2? , imake it in round 1 but the last stitch it come by red colour
The second question the Symbol in middle round in chart is this means the round begin in middle after Symbol and finish before
Thans for you
Iwait your answer
The first increase is at round 2.
SOrry, I don’t get your 2nd question, can you further elaborate on it?
The pattern is fabulous and I am excited to see it through! One question though, as this is my first fair isle pattern: in the colour chart, when you include the symbol for make one increase in the next round, in which colour should I make that increase? In other words, do I make that square that has the symbol an increase or do I first knit the square and then immediately follow it up with an increase of identycal colour? Also, I do not understand the difference between placing the symbol at the beginning of the pattern row or at the end, as it seems to me the increase occurs in the same position (since the pattern is a repeat). Please help, as I think the entire colour work will be messed up if I get it wrong 🙂
Good question Emma. The symbol on either the left or right of the square indicate that you are going to make an increase on the next round, just follow the color at the next round. For example, at the beginning of round 30 of the tick-tac-toe pattern, it says to make an increase on round 31 with a dark gray followed by the white stitch on the dark dray stitch on round 30, so, when you knit the first increase at round 31, you just do the 2 stitches increment at the dark gray stitch with a dark gray, then, a white sts. You might feel confused now, but once you have the yarn and needles on your hands and start working it out, you will get the picture why I drew the chart this way. Try and let me know if you still have a problem understanding it.
This is a beautiful pattern, and I would love to knit it for my son. He is ten years old but is a size 18-20. I’ve measured him around his arms and chest, and right now he is 32″ around the chest and 10″ circumference around the arms.
I would like to increase the stitch count to increase by 5″, so that would be 30 stitches at gauge. Will this make an acceptable number of stitches for the color work?
Hi Sarah, thank you for loving this pattern. Regarding your question, I would prefer you instead of changing the stitch count to enlarge the size, why not changing to heavier yarn. Changing stitch count in Fair Isle pattern requires more work to calculate and we might make some mistake during the calculation. Get a slightly heavier weight yarn and larger needles to meet your knitting gauge for this Fair Isle pattern. If you are using Lion Brand, I would say yarn weight of 4 Medium.
Thank you so much for the Poinsettia Fair Isle Pull over pattern.
you are welcome, Kamala.
Any chance you might make an adult pattern for the delightful girl ‘S version? I would love to make an adult version and steek front to make a cardigan.
Hi Laurel, you may use slightly heavier weight of yarn to make into adult size, just need to do some mathematic to get the measurement right. However, you might want to reduce the number of round on the body portion so that it won’t turn out too long.