Inspired by the Nordic Fair Isle fashion, the beautiful knit sweater patterns with yoke construction should be on your next to-knit list.

The fair isle patterns used in these knit sweater patterns are similar to those in the slouchy knit beanie and the knit leg warmers free knitting patterns. Knit them all to make a perfect set of cozy clothing in a timeless fashion.

Contents

What Is Fair Isle Sweater?

Named after Fair Isle, one of the Shetland Islands, Fair Isle is a traditional knitting technique used to create patterns with multiple colors. Conventionally, Fair Isle patterns have a limited palette of about five colors, use only two colors per row, and are worked in the round.

Fair Isle Knit Sweater Patterns

(Kid Size)

Scroll ⬇️ To Get The Free Knitting Pattern

These Fair Isle Sweaters use 3 colors to create the stranded colorwork pattern, and only 2 colors are involved at any one round. They are two Poinsettia-themed Fair Isle patterns for you to choose from, the“Heart” and the “Tic-Tac-Toe” variations. To ease the knitting progress, we have added the Fair Isle pattern diagram in the pattern section. You can easily spot and follow through when to change yarn color to create the stranded colorwork design.

What is Yoke Sweater?

One of the easiest knit sweater patterns is knitting with a circular yoke. Commonly, it is knitting from the top-down direction; in some cases, some patterns will have it in the opposite direction by knitting it bottom-up. A top-down direction essentially begins the knitting from the collar or neckline and works its way down to the hem of the body.

To begin the knitting from top-down, stitches are cast on at the neckline, then increments take place until the yoke reaches the wides circumference at the armhole depth. At this point, there are no clues between the front, back, and sleeves at the yoke since the whole piece is a circular piece.

When the yoke measures the desired depth, in this case, after the fair isle pattern is made, stitches for the sleeves are placed on holders. The knitting continues in the round to knit the body and finishes off with a bind-off at the hem. The stitches on the holders are then picked up to knit the sleeves in the round all the way down to the cuffs.

The yoke sweater is one of the popular knitting patterns because it is seamless with no side seams and visible armhole shaping.

How To Knit Fair Isle Sweaters With A Yoke?

The knit sweater patterns use circular and double-pointed needles to knit from top-down in the round. When knitting in the round, it means you’re always knitting on the front of the work.

It begins with a neck rib and then extends to knit a yoke with a “Poinsettia” Fair Isle pattern, finishing with the top-down knitting at the bottom ribbing.

To complete the yoke sweater, sleeves are knitted by picking up stitches from the yoke’s armholes and working their way to the cuffs.

The patterns of these Fair Isle sweaters come in 2 sizes, 8-10 years and 11-12 years. Photos and videos are included in the pattern to make it easier for you to understand how to make this knit sweater.

Knitting Materials & Supplies

∙ Yarns

The yarns used for this Fair Isle knit sweater pattern are Superwash Merino Yarn with 100% Superwash Merino Wool. We chose this yarn because it is soft, luxurious, warm, and most importantly, it is a washing-machine-safe yarn.

The total yardage needed for this knit sweater pattern is five balls, with three balls being the main color (Red / Dark Grey) and one ball of each on the secondary colors (White and Light Gray). There will be some leftover yarns after completing this fair isle sweater, you can use them to knit the beanie hat and leg warmers.

This yarn has a gauge tension of 24 sts x 34 rows in Stockinette Stitch. You may replace them with equivalent yarns that have a similar gauge. Please take time to make a gauge swatch to check your tension before beginning the actual knitting.

Always wash and block your swatch before measuring to ensure the final size is correct. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. Lastly, if needed, up or down a size to meet the size if you are using different yarn and can’t meet the tension gauge; this will need a little knitting experience.

∙ Knitting Needles & Other Supplies

Besides using 16″ and 24″ Circular Needles U.S. 3 (3mm) and U.S. 6 (4mm) to knit the yoke sweater, you also need 4 pcs. of Double Pointed Needles U.S. 3 (3mm) and U.S. 6 (4mm) to begin the smaller round at the armhole. A pair of 4″ stitch holders are needed to temporarily hold the stitches at the armhole while the knitting is in progress to complete the body part.

Keeping track of rows in knitting is very important as we don’t want to end up producing a different length of pieces. There are many ways to keep track of the numbers; the easiest way is to use stitch markers. Mark the row with a stitch marker on every 10th row, 20th row, or 50th row will make the counting easier. Stitch markers are used to mark the first stitch of the round since this pattern is knitted in the continuous round.

At the end of the knitting, we need a tapestry needle to sew up the small opening at the armpit area and also to bind off the ribbing stitches at the hem. Another item you might need in this pattern is a body-size bath towel used during the blocking; read more on how to block your knitting.

One pattern doesn’t fit all in the family, there are a few types of knit sweater patterns here in Craft Passion. Pick the one that your loved one prefers and start knitting for them.

Besides these knit sweater patterns, we also have a Cable Knit Shawl Collar Sweater Pattern and a Raglan Sweater Pattern, the latter is a simple sweater knitting pattern.

With these beautiful knit sweater patterns, I hope you enjoy knitting up a storm. Happy knitting!

What’s Next

Start knitting and share your completed handmade on Facebook and/or Instagram. Remember to tag us, @craftpassion, so that we are able to see them.
Pin it to Pinterest for future To-Knit List
Share with your knitting groups for a knit-along event.
Browse more free knitting patterns to make, particularly the matching fair isle beanie hat and leg warmers.

Fair Isle Sweaters Pattern (Kid Size)

Yield: Kid Size (8 to 12 Years Old)

Active Time: 14 days

Total Time: 14 days

Difficulty: Intermediate /Advance Level

Estimated Cost: $50 - $60

Fair Isle is a traditional knitting technique used to create patterns with multiple colors. This Poinsettia Fair Isle Pullover uses 3 colors to create a pattern and at any one time, the most only 2 colors are involved. The knit pattern uses circular and double-pointed needles to knit top-down in the round. It begins with a neck rib then extends to knit a yoke with Poinsettia Fair Isle pattern, followed by the body, lastly the sleeve. The Poinsettia Fair Isle pattern comes in 2 sizes, 8-10 years and 11-12 years. Photos and videos are included in the pattern to make it easier for you to understand.

Enjoy knitting them!

Download and print separately:
Tic-Tac-Toe with Poinsettia Color Pattern Chart (For Boy),
Heart with Poinsettia Color Pattern Chart (For Girl)
Dimension Diagram
Construction: Yoke, Work in Round, Top Down

Helpful video tutorial on Fair Isle Knitting and How to trap the floats

Materials

Yarn: Lion Brand Superwash Merino Yarn - Yarn A Color: Dark Gray (Charcoal) or Red (Cayenne), Balls needed: 3 balls
Yarn: Lion Brand Superwash Merino Yarn - Yarn B Color: Gray (Hemp), Balls needed: 1 ball
Yarn: Lion Brand Superwash Merino Yarn - Yarn C Color: White (Ivory), Balls needed: 1 ball

Tools

Needles: 16″ and 24″ Circular needle U.S. 3 (3mm) and U.S. 6 (4mm)
Needles: Double Pointed needle U.S. 3 (3mm) and U.S. 6 (4mm)
Stitch Markers
Stitch holders, 4″
Tapestry needle

Instructions

Size: (Figure in square brackets refer to larger sizes)

Children Age: 8-10 years [11-12 years]
Chest: 30 [32] inch / 76 [81] cm
Full Length: 24.5 [25.5] inch / 62.5 [65] cm
Sleeve Seam: 13 [14] inch / 33 [35.5] cm

Tension Gauge:
Stockinette Stitch: 24 sts and 34 rows = 4″ (10cm) using U.S. 6 (4mm) needles

Take time to make a gauge swatch to check your tension. Wash and block your swatch before measuring. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

Instruction:
The instructions are written for the smallest size. If changes are necessary for larger size(s) the instructions will be written thus [ ]. Numbers for each size are shown in the same order throughout the pattern. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
Abbreviations:
alt = Alternate(ing)
beg = Beginning
cont = Continue
dec = Decrease(ing)
foll = Following
k = Knit
inc = Increase(ing)
m1 = make 1 increase
P = Purl
patt = Pattern
rem = Remaining
rep = Repeat
RS = Right Side
sl = slip
st(s) = Stitch(es)
WS = Wrong Side

Knit Written Pattern

YOKE
Using U.S. 3 (3mm) needles and yarn A, 2×2 tubular cast on 104 [116] sts (watch video on how to do 2×2 tubular cast-on in round). Insert a stitch marker at the beg of round (= mid back).
Work 2×2 rib (k2, p2) in round for 1″ (2.5cm).

Change to short circular needle size U.S.6 (4mm).
Next round: k10 [15], *m1, k17 [29], rep from * to last 9 [14] sts, m1, k to end. 110 [120] sts.

Then work an elevation at the back in stockinette st as follows: k8 [10] sts, past marker, turn, tighten yarn and p16 [20], turn, tighten yarn and k24 [30], turn, continue by working 8 [10] st on every turn until a total of 80 [100] sts have been worked, turn and k 1 round until marker mid back again.

Then work Fair Isle patt (either Tic-Tac-Toe with Poinsettia for the boy, or Heart with Poinsettia for the girl) 11 [12] times. Change to a longer circular needle when there are enough sts.

When Fair Isle patt has been worked, there are 286 [312] sts on needle. The piece now measures approx. 7.75″ mid front (measured without the neck ribbing).

Cont to work with yarn A only.

Next round (only for 8-10 years): k11, *m1, k24, rep from * to last 11 sts, m1, k to end. 298 sts.

Next round (only for 11-12 years): k 1 round. 312 sts.

Work next round as follow: k44 [44], slip the next 62 [68] sts on a stitch holder for sleeve (without working them first), cast on 9 [12] new sts, k87 [88] (= front piece), slip the next 62 [68] sts on a stitch holder for sleeve (without working them first), cast on 9 [12] new sts, k43 [44] sts. 192 [200] sts rem on the circular needle.

BODY (Boy)

Cont in stockinette st for 8″ [9″] (approx. 66 [74] rounds). Work the following patt set as shown in Tic-Tac-Toe with Poinsettia color chart.

Round 1: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 2 to 4: A patt, rep patt to end
Round 5: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 6: B patt, rep patt to end
Round 7: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 8: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 9 to 11: A patt, rep patt to end
Round 12: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 13: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Only for 8-10 years: Round 14 to 19: Work on C patt for 3 times, then C’ patt, work on C patt for 10 times, then C’ patt, work on C patt for 4 times to end.
Only for 11-12 years: Round 14 to 19: C patt, rep patt to end.
Round 20: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 21: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 22 to 26: E patt, rep patt to end
Round 27: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 28: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 29: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 30 to 32: A patt, rep patt to end
Round 33: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 34: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)

Change to circular needle size U.S.3 (3mm) and with yarn B.

Next round: k8 [5], *m1, k16 [10], rep from * to last 8 [5] sts, m1, k to end. 204 [220] sts.

Then work 2×2 rib (k2, p2) for 1.75″. Tubular bind off.

BODY (Girl)

Cont in stockinette st for 12″ [13″] (approx. 100 [108] rounds).

Change to circular needle size U.S.3 (3mm).

Next round: k8 [5], *m1, k16 [10], rep from * to last 8 [5] sts, m1, k to end. 204 [220] sts.

Then work 2×2 rib (k2, p2) for 1.75″. Tubular bind off the 2×2 rib.

SLEEVE (Boy)

Slip sts from stitch holder to Double Pointed needle U.S. 6 (4mm), cast in additional 10 [12] sts mid under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of these sts) = 72 [80] sts. Cont in Stockinette st in a round with Yarn A.
Work 6 [7] rounds, then dec 1 st on each side of the marker of next round and following 10th rounds until you reach 76 [87] round. Work the following patt set as shown in Tic-Tac-Toe with Poinsettia. Cont to work until the patt is done.

Only for 8-10 years:

Round 77: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray) while dec 1st on each side of the marker. (56 sts rem)
Round 78 to 80: A patt, repeat patt to end
Round 81: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 82: B patt, repeat patt to end
Round 83: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 84: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 85 to 87: A patt, repeat patt to end
Round 88: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray) while dec 1st on each side of the marker. (54 sts rem)
Round 89: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 90 to 95: Work on C’ patt for 4 times, then C patt for 1 time to end
Round 96: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 97: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray) while dec 1st on each side of the marker. (52 sts rem)
Round 98 to 102: E patt, repeat patt to end
Round 103: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 104: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 105: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 106 to 108: A patt, repeat patt to end
Round 109: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 110: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)

Only for 11-12 years:

Round 88: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray) while dec 1st on each side of the marker. (62 sts rem)
Round 89 to 91: A patt, repeat patt to last 2 stitches, k2 in yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 92: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 93: B patt, repeat patt to end
Round 94: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 95: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 96 to 98: A patt, repeat patt to last 2 stitches, k2 in yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 99: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray) while dec 1st on each side of the marker. (60 sts rem)
Round 100: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 101 to 106: C patt, repeat patt to end.
Round 107: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 108: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray) while dec 1st on each side of the marker. (58 sts rem)
Round 109 to 113: E patt, repeat patt to last 2 stitches, k2 in Yarn C (white)
Round 114: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 115: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 116: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 117 to 119: A patt, repeat patt to last 2 stitches, k2 in yarn A (Dark Gray)
Round 120: k in a round with Yarn B (Gray)
Round 121: k in a round with Yarn A (Dark Gray)

Change to Double Pointed needle U.S. 3 (3mm) and with yarn B, work 2×2 rib (k2, p2) for 1.5″. Tubular bind off the 2×2 rib.

Rep the same on the other stitch holder of the sleeve.

SLEEVE (Girl)

Slip sts from stitch holder to Double Pointed needle U.S. 6 (4mm), cast in additional 10 [12] sts mid under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of these sts) = 72 [80] sts. Cont in Stockinette st in a round with Yarn A.

Work 6 [7] rounds, then dec 1 st on each side of the marker of next round and following 10th rounds until there are 52 [58] sts rem. Cont in Stockinette st for 5 rounds.

Work “Sleeve Color Segment Patt” for 8 rounds. Note: for 11-12 years, rep patt to last 2 stitches, k2 in yarn A (Dark Gray). Approx. 110 [121] rounds have been worked.

Change to Double Pointed needle U.S. 3 (3mm), work 2×2 rib (k2, p2) for 1.5″. Tubular bind off the 2×2 rib.

Rep the same on the other stitch holder of the sleeve.

TO FINISH OFF

Sew the openings under the sleeves.

BLOCKING
Block the pullover to obtain the correct size.

Dimension Diagram

(Download the pdf version here.)

Color Pattern Charts

(Download the pdf version here.)

HOW TO KNIT FAIR ISLE PULLOVER (KID SIZE)

This pullover pattern is knit from the top (start from neck rib) to the bottom. Follow the knit pattern to knit the pullover neck rib and followed by the elevation of the back.
Refer to the chart given, complete the fair isle pattern on the yoke.
Next, begin to work on the body pattern.
Follow the knit pattern to complete the body and waist rib, finish it with a tubular bind off.
Begin to work on the sleeve with a double-pointed needle as instructed by the knitting pattern.
Complete the sleeve and the ribband with a tubular bind off.
Sewing up the openings (the extra cast on sts in the pattern for the body and sleeve) under the sleeve.
After sewing up the opening.
Repeat the same on the sleeve to complete the Fair Isle pullover.
Block the fair isle pullover to the correct size.

Notes

Yarn amounts given are based on average requirements and are approximated. You should have leftover on the minority yarn color (yarn B and C) upon completion. Hence, if you are knitting for both Boy and Girl pullover, you need to buy only 1 set for Yarn B and C.

Get the full article at https://www.craftpassion.com/fair-isle-pullover-children/

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LB Collection� Superwash Merino Yarn

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Grace

Wednesday 26th of August 2020

Hi I would love to make this for 2-3 year old how do I go about it

Marianne Colligon

Thursday 27th of February 2020

Please explain the elevation at the back.I am having a difficult time understanding the iinstructions.

Do you do a w&t?

Craft Passion

Please find the answer to your previous question.

1. Are the calculations for the elevation at the back correct. 2. do you do a w&t. 3.what does it mean "continue by working 10 sts on every turn until a total of 100 sts. have been worked" Do I start the 10 sts after the marker or before. I get 10 sts and then 20 sts. that makes sense but then I knit 30 sts. and then work 10 sts. It seems lop-sided. Please help. thank you

Let me try to elaborate more on the pattern in this way: Let say at row 1 you knit 10 stitches from the mid back stitch marker, then make a turn (no w&t, just pull the yarn tight), followed by purl 20 stitches on row 2 (where you will reach the stitch marker after the 10th stitch, then continue to purl another 10 stitches to make up a total of 20 stitches). After that you turn again, row 3, to knit 10 to go back to the stitch marker, continue to knit 10+10 before turning, (the first 10 is knitting from row 2 stitches but the second 10 is actually knitting from row 1 stitches), this will give you 30 stitches in the row. When you do row 4, you purl 20 stitches to go back to the stitch marker, this time you purl 10 stitches from row 3 stitch, then add another 10 stitch purl from row 2 stitches. Do the same to the rest of the row in the manner until you have 100 stitches (50, stitch marker, 50) on the working needles. Hope this helps in explaining how to do the elevation. If you are still having problem with this section, feel free to send me a clear close-up photo on your work, email to joanne@craftpassion.com.

Mony2010

Wednesday 30th of January 2019

Thanks for the beautiful pattern ilove it and begining to work for my Daughter Now i knit in chart but ihave tow question, the increase in round 1 or 2? , imake it in round 1 but the last stitch it come by red colour The second question the Symbol in middle round in chart is this means the round begin in middle after Symbol and finish before Thans for you Iwait your answer

Friday 1st of February 2019

The first increase is at round 2. SOrry, I don't get your 2nd question, can you further elaborate on it?

Emma

Sunday 18th of November 2018

The pattern is fabulous and I am excited to see it through! One question though, as this is my first fair isle pattern: in the colour chart, when you include the symbol for make one increase in the next round, in which colour should I make that increase? In other words, do I make that square that has the symbol an increase or do I first knit the square and then immediately follow it up with an increase of identycal colour? Also, I do not understand the difference between placing the symbol at the beginning of the pattern row or at the end, as it seems to me the increase occurs in the same position (since the pattern is a repeat). Please help, as I think the entire colour work will be messed up if I get it wrong :)

Good question Emma. The symbol on either the left or right of the square indicate that you are going to make an increase on the next round, just follow the color at the next round. For example, at the beginning of round 30 of the tick-tac-toe pattern, it says to make an increase on round 31 with a dark gray followed by the white stitch on the dark dray stitch on round 30, so, when you knit the first increase at round 31, you just do the 2 stitches increment at the dark gray stitch with a dark gray, then, a white sts. You might feel confused now, but once you have the yarn and needles on your hands and start working it out, you will get the picture why I drew the chart this way. Try and let me know if you still have a problem understanding it.