Tablet Carrier Bag
Difficulty: Easy (without-zipper) / Intermediate (with zipper)
Finished size: approximately 12″ (W) x 8 1/2″ (H) x 1″ (D)
Sewing Pattern: Tablet Carrier Bag Pattern
1. Fabrics, 3 colors (I used Modern Yardage printed fabrics, Bumbaloo Collection by Marcia Copeland:
Burst in Red Orange, 13″ x 19″
Shaky Stripes in Orange Yellow, 19″ x 20″
Burst Attack in Seafoam. ), 9″ x 9″
2. Fusible Stabilizer / Interfacing, woven cotton, medium stiffness, approx: 18″ x 18″
3. Cotton webbing straps, 1″ (W) x 82″ (L)
4. Embellished Tape or ribbon or lace, short length (about 2 1/2″)
5. Zipper, 12″
5. Leather or cotton cord, 4 to 5″
1. Sewing machine, with normal and zipper presser feet
2. Sewing needle, pins, matching threads
4. Rotary cutter (you can use scissors too)
5. Erasable fabric marker
7. Warm iron
Seam Allowance: 1/2″ on fabrics only
You may substitute the straps with fabric, cut 2 1/2″ wide 83″ long, join the strips to make up to a 82″ ring. Cut 1″ wide 82″ long of stabilizer. Both fabric and stabilizer can be in multiple length as long as they join up to make a 82″ ring. Iron stabilizer to the wrong-side of the fabric strap along 1/2″ from raw edge. Fold the fabric in, hide raw edge along the edge of the strap, top stitch on both edges of the strap.
Gather all the materials and tools needed as listed above.
Download the pattern page to get the dimension of the cut out pieces.
Pre-wash your fabrics, get the grain lines straight and iron them flat and smooth.
Note: Pre-wash your fabrics are essential to avoid any shrinkage in future when you wash it. It is also for you to test out how color-fast your fabric is. The Modern Yardage fabrics I used are already pre-wash, so I don’t really have to wash them but I still wash them to test out the color-fastness.
Draw out the bag pattern pieces directly on the wrong-side of the fabrics and fusible stabilizer / interfacing.
Set the iron to cotton setting without steam.
Align the stabilizer to the main fabric, with the shinny adhesive side facing down and on the wrong-side of the fabric. The stabilizer is 1″ smaller than the fabric, hence, it is 1/2″ away from the fabric edge.
Press warm iron onto the stabilizer to fuse it to the fabric. Make sure it bonds nicely with out any bubble.
Fuse the pocket stabilizer to the lining of the pocket too. The lining is 2″ longer and 1″ wider, hence, the interfacing is 1″ from the top edges and 1/2″ from the side edges of the lining.
a.) Set the stitch length to the longest length, sew 1/8″ above and below the top and bottom seam-lines of the pocket main piece.
b.) Align both pocket main piece and lining piece with right-side facing each other, all 4 sides together and pin. Pin on the 2 1/2″ markings and let extra length of fabric of the main piece gather at the center. Pull threads to make gathers at the center. Sew on the top and bottom seam-lines of the pocket. Note: lining piece is larger than the main piece.
c.) Turn the pocket right-side out, press seam flat with seam allowance at the gather-side. Top stitch near the edges and seam-lines.
d.) Align the pocket on the bag main piece. Pin. Set aside.
a.) Zig-zag stitch the ends to join the cotton webbing straps together to form a ring. Note: you may lightly burn the raw edges of the cotton webbing straps to stop it from fraying excessively.
b.) Cover the ugly seam with fabric tape, ribbon or lace. Sew around.
c.) Place the strap onto the main piece of the bag with pocket already pinned in place.
d.) Sew the strap to the bag with 1″ below the top seam lines.
With Zipper (Challenging Option)
a.) Change sewing machine foot to zipper presser foot. Align the zipper to the top seam lines of the bag, with both zipper and fabric facing each other at the right-side. Align the lining piece to them with right-side facing in. Pin and sew. Glide the zipper pull when necessary to avoid it from blocking the sewing path.
b.) Turn to the right-side, press seam flat and top stitch near the seam-line.
c.) Pin the other side of the bag to the zipper, followed by pinning the lining piece to them.
d.) Turn right-side out, press seam flat, top stitch near the seam-line. Due to the stiffness of the stabilizer, you might not be able to perform the top-stitch in 1-go, stitch as far as you can, stop, then sew from the other end.
a.) Turn the bag wrong-side again and lay it flat as shown in picture, main piece at a side and lining piece at the other. Mark an opening at the side seam of about 5″ on the lining. Pin.
b.) Align the piece properly so that they join up nicely and neatly. Sew both side seams except the 5″ opening at one of the sides of the lining. Note that the zipper is on the lining side.
c.) Flatten the base of the bag, a triangle as shown in the picture will form at the corner of the side seam. Flatten the lining’s base to form an exact triangle.
d.) Pin both triangle together and sew. Repeat the same to the other base’s corner.
a.) The bag looks crumbled up after sewing both corners.
b.) Bring the straps out from the opening. Slowly turn everything right-side out. It may be difficult if your stabilizer is too stiff and hard, rip off some stitch to make the opening bigger if needed.
c.) Sew to close the opening at the lining.
d.) Turn the bag and iron it if needed.
Embellish the bag with a charm or other decorative item like leather badge or button.
Without Zipper (Easier Option)
a.) Position the bag piece on top of lining piece with right-side facing each other after you have sewed the strap on. Pin.
b.) Place a leather or cotton cord loop at the center of the top seam, sandwich in between both bag and lining pieces. Pin and sew the top seams. Sew a few more stitches (back and forth) on the place where the loop is placed.
c.) Flip the bag and lining pieces open, one at each side. Sew the side seam by leaving a 5″ opening at one of the lining’s side seams.
d.) Flatten the base of the bag to form a triangle at the corner of the side seam. Flatten the lining’s base to form an exact triangle. Pin both triangles together and sew. Repeat the same to the other base’s corner.
Bring the straps out from the opening, slowly turn the bag right-side out.
Top stitch near the edge. Iron the bag flat and smooth if needed.
Sew a button to the bag to catch the loop.
Here is the easy version of tablet carrier bag without the zipper. The owl button catches the loop so that the bag is partially shut to prevent the tablet from falling out.
I added a tree just above the pocket to match with the owl button.
Hope to see you sewing soon!