Who could resist a beautiful pair of knit leg warmers from someone who cares so much? It is a perfect gift to make for yourself and for your loved ones. The elegant braids created from cable knitting patterns are the absolute eye-catcher. Wait no more; let’s pick up your needle and yarns and start knitting with the free leg warmers knitting pattern.
I hope everyone who is affected by the winter storm is fine. The “bomb cyclone” that caused an extreme and rapid temperature drop last week was so terrible and life-threatening.
This pair of cable knit leg warmers would be in very good use to at least keep the legs warm during cold days. We have a matching cable zipper cowl or neck warmer knitting pattern that you can knit as a set.
I knitted this pair of leg warmers a while ago, and I wore them during my winter vacation in Japan. I received lots of compliments from passersby asking where I bought these stylish ombre effect cable knit leg warmers. If they were on you, you’d get the same awe.
Cable Knit Leg Warmers Knitting Pattern
scroll ⬇️ to get the downloadable and printable free knitting pattern
Similar to socks that keep our lower legs warm, legwarmers are thicker in material and with footless construction.
Traditionally, leg warmers are knitted from pure wool, modern variants are more typically made of cotton, synthetic fibers, or both.
Due to differences in material, stretchiness, and designs, leg warmers come in various lengths and widths.
Originally, legwarmers were worn by dancers to keep their muscles from cramping after stretching. But today’s legwarmers have become a piece of clothing in a way that amplifies your fashion sense and personal style. Here are the 10 outfit ideas with legwarmers that you might be interested in.
Materials & Supplies
It doesn’t take very long to complete this pair of leg warmers; at least they are so much faster than a pullover knit project. A ball of Lion Brand Scarfie is all the yarn you need, you will need to match the ombre tone for both pieces of the leg warmers, but the effort is rewarding after they are done.
We also added some elastic thread to the band area. However, the elastic thread is totally optional. The elastic thread will give the leg warmers a better grip on the shin, so they won’t glide down to become an ankle warmer due to gravity when you walk.
The leg warmers are knitted in the round with a 16″ US 9 (5.5 mm) circular needle. You’re always knitting on the front of the work by knitting in a continuous round.
That also means that you will never need to turn the work to knit on the wrong side. Also, Knitting in the round produces a seamless tube-like fabric that is exactly the shape of the leg warmer.
Moreover, you save some time from sewing the seam, and thus, you work faster than knitting flat. Finally, seamless leg warmers are always more comfortable to wear.
Besides yarn and knitting needles, you need a cable needle to knit the cable pattern. I always use a size smaller cable needle for this function.
A stitch marker is a must to make the beginning stitch of each round. Lastly, a tapestry needle is needed to bind off the knitting.
Are you ready to whip up this beautiful pair of leg warmers and get ready for the cold days? After trying out the first pair, I am sure you will want to make more in other colors to match your outfit of the day.
Also, your friend who doesn’t know how to knit will want one from you too. Let’s see the pictures of these leg warmers from other knitters in Ravelry.
Happy knitting!
What’s Next
- Start knitting and share your completed handmade on Facebook and/or Instagram. Remember to tag us, @craftpassion, so that we are able to see them.
- Pin it to Pinterest for future To-Knit List
- Share with your knitting groups for a knit-along event.
- Check out more free knitting patterns, especially the zipper cowl neck warmers and beanie hat patterns to create a 3-piece set.
Leg Warmers Cable Knitting Pattern
The leg warmers are knitted in the round with a 5.5mm circular needle, you do not need to do any seaming after completing the knitting part. However, there is some important note in the pattern that you need to pay attention to, especially when there is a cable knitting pattern between the last stitch of the previous round and the first stitch on the next round. No worry, I have that explained clearly and if you still have difficulty in understanding, please let me know.
Enjoy knitting them!
Download and print separately the knitting PATTERN. Construction: Work in Round
Materials
- Yarn: Lion Brand Scarfie Yarn, 78% Acrylic, 22% Wool (approx. 312 yards/285m per 150g ball) - Yarn Color: Denim/Navy, Balls needed: 1 ball
- Elastic cord, 3 yards
Tools
- Needles: 16″ (or shorter) Circular needles U.S. 9 (5.5mm)
- Cable needle (size should be smaller than the circular needle)
- Stitch Markers
- Tapestry needle
Instructions
Tension Gauge:
· Stockinette Stitch: 14 sts and 20 rows = 4″ (10cm) using U.S. 9 (5.5mm) needles
· 2 x 2 Ribbing Stitch: 21 sts and 24 row = 4″ (10cm) using U.S. 9 (5.5mm) needles
- Take time to make a gauge swatch to check your tension.
- Wash and block your swatch before measuring.
- Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Abbreviations:
· C4F = Cable 4 Front. Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and leave at front of work. K2, then k2 from cable needle
· cont = Continue
· k = Knit
· P = Purl
· RS = Right Side
· st(s) = Stitch(es)
· T3B = Twist 3 Back. Slip next st onto cable needle and leave at back of work. K2, then p1 from cable needle
· T3F = Twist 3 Front. Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and leave at front of work. P1, then k2 from cable needle
Leg Warmers Knitting Pattern
(Make 2)
Using 16″(or shorter) Circular needles U.S. 9 (5.5mm) and Scarfie yarn, 2×2 tabular cast on 56 sts (Watch the video on how to do 2×2 tabular cast-on in a round). End the 2 x 2 with 1 purl stitch. Insert a stitch marker at the beg of round.
Round 1 – 3 (RS) : p1, (k2,p2) to end, end with p1
Round 4 : [p1, T3F, T3B, p1] 7 times
Round 5 : [p2, k4, p2] 7 times
Round 6: [p2, C4F, p2] 7 times
Round 7 – 9: [p2, k4, p2] 7 times
Round 10: [p2, C4F, p2] 7 times
Round 11: [p2, k4, p2] 7 times
Round 12: [p1, T3B, T3F, p1] 7 times
Round 13-24 (12 rounds altogether): p1, (k2,p2) to end, end with p1
Round 25: [T3B, p2, T3F] 7 times
Round 26*: [k2, p4, k2] 6 times, k2, p4, cont with cable stitch of round 27 on the last 2 stitches
Round 27: [C4F, p4] 7 times
Round 28-30: [k4, p4] 7 times
Round 31: [C4F, p4] 7 times
Round 32**: [k4, p4] 7 times, k2,
Round 33: [T3F, p2,T3B] 7 times
Round 34-45 (12 rounds altogether): p1, (k2,p2) to end, end with p1
Round 46: [p1, T3F, T3B, p1] 7 times
Round 47: [p2, k4, p2] 7 times
Round 48: [p2, C4F, p2] 7 times
Round 49 – 51: [p2, k4, p2] 7 times
Round 52: [p2, C4F, p2] 7 times
Round 53: [p2, k4, p2] 7 times
Round 54: [p1, T3B, T3F, p1] 7 times
Round 55-57 (3 rounds altogether): p1, (k2,p2) to end, end with p1
Round 58: [T3B, p2, T3F] 7 times
Round 59*: [k2, p4, k2] 6 times, k2, p4, continue with cable stitch of round 27 on the last 2 stitches
Round 60: [C4F, p4] 7 times
Round 61 – 63: [k4, p4] 7 times
Round 64: [C4F, p4] 7 times
Round 65**: [k4, p4] 7 times, k2,
Round 66: [T3F, p2,T3B] 7 times
Round 67-69 (3 rounds altogether): p1, (k2,p2) to end, end with p1
Round 70: [p1, T3F, T3B, p1] 7 times
Round 71: [p2, k4, p2] 7 times
Round 72: [p2, C4F, p2] 7 times
Round 73 – 75: [p2, k4, p2] 7 times
Round 76: [p2, C4F, p2] 7 times
Round 77: [p2, k4, p2] 7 times
Round 78: [p1, T3B, T3F, p1] 7 times
Round 79 – 81 (3 rounds altogether): p1, (k2,p2) to end, end with p1
Round 82: [T3B, p2, T3F] 7 times
Round 83*: [k2, p4, k2] 6 times, k2, p4, continue with cable stitch of round 27 on the last 2 stitches
Round 84: [C4F, p4] 7 times
Round 85 – 87: [k4, p4] 7 times
Round 88: [C4F, p4] 7 times
Round 89**: [k4, p4] 7 times, k2,
Round 90: [T3F, p2,T3B] 7 times
Round 91 – 92 (2 rounds altogether): p1, (k2,p2) to end, end with p1
Tubular bind off the 2×2 rib.
Note:
*The first stitch of the round has shifted 2 stitches to the left to accommodate the cable stitch of the next round
** The first stitch of the round is shifted back to its original place as it was in round 1
BLOCKING
Block the cable knit leg warmers to obtain the correct size.
TO FINISH OFF
Choose which side of the leg warmers you want to be the top, sew a few rows of elastic cords to the wrong side of the leg warmers. The elastic cord helps to hold the leg warmers firmly on your leg. It is optional, you can leave out the elastic cord if you prefer.
Pattern Diagram & Panel Chart
(Click to get the knitting pattern diagram in pdf.)
Instructions with pictures to assist in the Knit Leg Warmers with Cable Knitting Pattern
This is what the WIP leg warmer looks like after a tubular cast-on and a few rounds of knitting were done to make the first cable block.
Follow the knitting pattern to produce the twisted cable designs.
Once you have completed the last round of the knitting pattern, 2 x 2 Tubular bind off with tapestry needle.
a. Match the ombre tone of the second piece to as close to the first piece.
You might need to cut away some yarn to get the correct color to begin knitting the second piece.
b. Block and shape the leg warmers before wearing.
c. Add elastic code to the top side of the leg warmers if you wish to.
Stylish and easy matching knit leg warmers for every cold-day wear.
Perfect to go with boots, sexy to go with heels, casual to go with flats and sneakers.
Keep Warm, Stay Healthy, and Be Happy!
Notes
Yarn amounts given are based on average requirements and are approximated. If you are using Scarfie yarn, match the ombre tone to the second piece of the leg warmers. You might need to cut away some yarn length before beginning to knit the second piece in order for them to match approximately.
Get the full article at https://www.craftpassion.com/cable-knit-leg-warmers/
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Gina
Wednesday 28th of April 2021
Everything was working until row32. I have no idea what you mean. (k4p4) 7 times . that is 56. Where does the extra two come from? Am I going to be knitting purl stitches and purling knit stitches I am confused by this pattern. It is lovely though. I wish I could figure this out but I cannot.
Craft Passion
Friday 30th of April 2021
There is a stitch count shifting due to the cable pattern (as highlighted with the * & ** note in the pattern), just follow the instruction in rounds and you will get it right.
Jayne Morrison
Wednesday 30th of December 2020
Hi Jen, I have the same question. I mapped it out and I think you start the 2x2 with 1 purl stitch then 2x2, that will leave you with 1 stitch at the end which should be a purl. This way the rib will come out with 1 purl at the beginning of the round and end of the round. I see your post was Dec 5th. If this is what you already figured out please let me know.
Jen Fitzwater
Saturday 5th of December 2020
It's not clear to me how you end up with 1 purl at the end of the tubular cast on process. There are 56 stitches if you do a 2x2 rib, you end with 2 purls, not 1. I just moved my stitch marker back one so that I end and will now start with 1 purl?
Jayne Morrison
Wednesday 30th of December 2020
Hi Jen, I have the same question. I mapped it out and I think you start the 2x2 with 1 purl stitch then 2x2, that will leave you with 1 stitch at the end which should be a purl. This way the rib will come out with 1 purl at the beginning of the round and end of the round. I see your post was Dec 5th. If this is what you already figured out please let me know.
Amy Griffin
Wednesday 5th of February 2020
Hi! I am starting this pattern and doing a tubular cast on for the first time. Can you clarify if I should begin with 56 stitches or half, 28? I'm sure it'll be obvious once I get the hang of it. Thanks, they're gorgeous!
Craft Passion
Wednesday 5th of February 2020
Obviously it 56 stitches as given in the pattern. Btw, what made you think to half it?
Madsci
Saturday 5th of January 2019
Hi! These are beautiful and I'd like to make a pair! I'd like to do them with a smaller needle (size 7), but will need to increase the pattern repeats. Can you add one pattern repeat or do you have to do two? Thanks!
Craft Passion
Saturday 5th of January 2019
Hi Madsci, you will need to make a test gauge (bigger than 4" x 4" ) to check your knitting tension, measure and mark your test gauge 4" x 4" and count the amount of stitch and rows in it. Do some calculations of the number of stitches and rows you need to achieve the final dimension of the leg warmer, from there you will know how many repeats you will need to add to the pattern. Hope this helps.