Tablet Carrier Bag
I’ve got some beautiful fabrics from Modern Yardage a few months ago and I have decided to sew some little tablet carrier bag for me to bring out during the weekend for a short coffee break.
The size of this tablet carrier bag is suitable to keep your iPad, Kindle, Galaxy Tab, Google Nexus, and other handheld electronic devices of similar size. They are good for books too or a quick grocery store trip, just dump your keys and phone in, and off you go!
This tablet carrier bag tutorial comes in 2 versions, with or without a zipper. I have developed the tutorial for both bags to suit your interests. “With Zipper” will be for intermediate level and “Without Zipper” is easier and quicker to sew.
I ordered 3 yards of fabrics from Modern Yardage early this year, Bumbaloo Collection by Marcia Copeland. Unlike the usual cut to yard fabric we bought off the shelve, Modern Yardage fabrics are print-to-order. They only print after you have placed the order via their website to save storage space and reduce the waste of out-dated prints.
This quilting weight fabric comes in 58″ wide, but they only printed on 44″. The additional spaces at the side are printed with other interesting things, like wash instruction, free patterns, etc, you could use this section for sewing something fun. Modern Yardage uses environmentally-friendly, water-based textile pigments that are not harsh to humans and the Earth. Read more to understand their product, here.
Do you want to sew this Tablet Carrier Bag with Modern Yardage fabrics? Stay tuned for tomorrow’s updates in Craft Passion, there will be a giveaway from Modern Yardage!!! In the meantime, please do follow Modern Yardage to see what do they have for you: Facebook | Instagram | Pinterest | Twitter
[Update: here is the giveaway mentioned above, closes on 3rd May 2014.]
Tablet Carrier Bag
Difficulty: Easy (without-zipper) / Intermediate (with zipper)
Finished size: approximately 12″ (W) x 8 1/2″ (H) x 1″ (D)
Sewing Pattern: Tablet Carrier Bag Pattern
1. Fabrics, 3 colors (I used Modern Yardage printed fabrics, Bumbaloo Collection by Marcia Copeland:
Burst in Red Orange, 13″ x 19″
Shaky Stripes in Orange Yellow, 19″ x 20″
Burst Attack in Seafoam. ), 9″ x 9″
2. Fusible Stabilizer / Interfacing, woven cotton, medium stiffness, approx: 18″ x 18″
3. Cotton webbing straps, 1″ (W) x 82″ (L)
4. Embellished Tape or ribbon or lace, short length (about 2 1/2″)
5. Zipper, 12″
5. Leather or cotton cord, 4 to 5″
1. Sewing machine, with normal and zipper presser feet
2. Sewing needle, pins, matching threads
4. Rotary cutter (you can use scissors too)
5. Erasable fabric marker
7. Warm iron
Seam Allowance: 1/2″ on fabrics only
You may substitute the straps with fabric, cut 2 1/2″ wide 83″ long, join the strips to make up to an 82″ ring. Cut 1″ wide 82″ long of stabilizer. Both fabric and stabilizer can be in multiple lengths as long as they join up to make an 82″ ring. Iron stabilizer to the wrong side of the fabric strap along 1/2″ from the raw edge. Fold the fabric in, hide raw edge along the edge of the strap, topstitch on both edges of the strap.
Gather all the materials and tools needed as listed above.
Download the pattern page to get the dimension of the cut-out pieces.
Pre-wash your fabrics, get the grain lines straight, and iron them flat and smooth.
Note: Pre-wash your fabrics are essential to avoid any shrinkage in the future when you wash it. It is also for you to test out how color-fast your fabric is. The Modern Yardage fabrics I used are already pre-wash, so I don’t really have to wash them but I still wash them to test out the color-fastness.
Set the iron to the cotton setting without steam.
Align the stabilizer to the main fabric, with the shiny adhesive side facing down and on the wrong side of the fabric. The stabilizer is 1″ smaller than the fabric, hence, it is 1/2″ away from the fabric edge.
Press warm iron onto the stabilizer to fuse it to the fabric. Make sure it bonds nicely without any bubble.
Fuse the pocket stabilizer to the lining of the pocket too. The lining is 2″ longer and 1″ wider, hence, the interfacing is 1″ from the top edges and 1/2″ from the side edges of the lining.
a.) Set the stitch length to the longest length, sew 1/8″ above and below the top and bottom seam-lines of the pocket main piece.
b.) Align both pocket main piece and lining piece with right-side facing each other, all 4 sides together and pin. Pin on the 2 1/2″ markings and let the extra length of fabric of the main piece gather at the center. Pull threads to make gathers at the center. Sew on the top and bottom seam-lines of the pocket. Note: lining piece is larger than the main piece.
c.) Turn the pocket right-side out, press seam flat with seam allowance at the gather-side. Topstitch near the edges and seam-lines.
d.) Align the pocket on the bag main piece. Pin. Set aside.
a.) Zig-zag stitch the ends to join the cotton webbing straps together to form a ring. Note: you may lightly burn the raw edges of the cotton webbing straps to stop it from fraying excessively.
b.) Cover the ugly seam with fabric tape, ribbon or lace. Sew around.
c.) Place the strap onto the main piece of the bag with a pocket already pinned in place.
d.) Sew the strap to the bag with 1″ below the top seam lines.
With Zipper (Challenging Option)
a.) Change the sewing machine foot to zipper presser foot. Align the zipper to the top seam lines of the bag, with both zipper and fabric facing each other at the right side. Align the lining piece to them with right-side facing in. Pin and sew. Glide the zipper pull when necessary to avoid it from blocking the sewing path.
b.) Turn to the right side, press seam flat, and topstitch near the seam-line.
c.) Pin the other side of the bag to the zipper, followed by pinning the lining piece to them.
d.) Turn right-side out, press seam flat, topstitch near the seam-line. Due to the stiffness of the stabilizer, you might not be able to perform the top-stitch in 1-go, stitch as far as you can, stop, then sew from the other end.
a.) Turn the bag wrong-side again and lay it flat as shown in the picture, the main piece at a side and the lining piece at the other. Mark an opening at the side seam of about 5″ on the lining. Pin.
b.) Align the piece properly so that they join up nicely and neatly. Sew both side seams except the 5″ opening at one of the sides of the lining. Note that the zipper is on the lining side.
c.) Flatten the base of the bag, a triangle as shown in the picture will form at the corner of the side seam. Flatten the lining’s base to form an exact triangle.
d.) Pin both triangles together and sew. Repeat the same to the other base’s corner.
a.) The bag looks crumbled up after sewing both corners.
b.) Bring the straps out from the opening. Slowly turn everything right-side out. It may be difficult if your stabilizer is too stiff and hard, rip off some stitch to make the opening bigger if needed.
c.) Sew to close the opening at the lining.
d.) Turn the bag and iron it if needed.
Without Zipper (Easier Option)
a.) Position the bag piece on top of the lining piece with right-side facing each other after you have sewed the strap on. Pin.
b.) Place a leather or cotton cord loop at the center of the top seam, sandwich in between both bag and lining pieces. Pin and sew the top seams. Sew a few more stitches (back and forth) on the place where the loop is placed.
c.) Flip the bag and lining pieces open, one at each side. Sew the side seam by leaving a 5″ opening at one of the lining’s side seams.
d.) Flatten the base of the bag to form a triangle at the corner of the side seam. Flatten the lining’s base to form an exact triangle. Pin both triangles together and sew. Repeat the same to the other base’s corner.
Here is the easy version of a tablet carrier bag without the zipper. The owl button catches the loop so that the bag is partially shut to prevent the tablet from falling out.
I added a tree just above the pocket to match with the owl button.
Hope to see you sewing soon!