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Sewing: TriFold Floral Wallet {Tutorial & Pattern}

This is the trifold wallet I made by using the embroidery with flower applique couching on it. You can get the pattern and tutorial on the embroidery work here.

Design and sew this wallet only took me a night to complete (with the embroidery face ready), but begin a novice in Illustrator, drafting and finalizing the pattern took me days. It was fun playing around with Illustrator that sometimes I discovered and tried on other tools and got distracted from drawing the pattern. Finding possibilities to create and develop is my hobby and passion, that’s why I love creative handmade so much By the way, you can get the free 5 pages of printable pdf pattern for this trifold floral wallet here. Be sure to set your printer paper setting to letter (8.5″ x 11″) and don’t scale it otherwise the dimension won’t be right. There are dimension in the pattern, so you can check with a ruler if you are not sure.

Tips on cutting and ironing fusible interfacing
One thing I would like to point out in this tutorial and also for many other purse and handbag sewings, always cut the interfacing in right angle against the direction of the fabric. For example, for lining A, the 4 1/2″ edge is along the warp direction and 9 1/2″ is the weft direction, when you cut the fusible interfacing, make sure to reverse the warp and weft, with 9 1/2″ on the warp and 4 1/2″ on the weft. This method will make the structure of the fabric hence the purse more stable and won’t go out of shape after using for a period of time. This is because you have both direction as warp after the interfacing is fused on the fabric.
If you are not sure what heat level on the iron needed to fuse the interfacing to the fabric, always test it on a scrap fabric before you go for the real work. Basically, the lighter the weight of the interfacing the lower the heat needed. If the interfacing shrink, the iron is too hot, if the interfacing won’t stick, the iron is too cold. Start pressing from one side and slowly glide to the other side to reduce bubble creation. Check the bonding after it cools down and repeat or redo the work as necessary.

Material:
1. Polkadot fabric: Fat Quarter (18″ x 22″)
2. Flora print fabric: Fat Eighth (11″ x 18″)
3. Dark Brown fabric: 11″ x 11″
4. Fusible Interfacing: medium weight (18″ x11″)
5. Plastic Sheet: 2.5″ x 4″ (transparent plastic sheet for projector or photocopier)
6. Velco: 1″ wide, 6″
7. Zipper: 4″
8. Decorative twill tape
9. Heatnbond for applique
10. Embroidery flosses
Other Supplies
11. Bias tape maker, 1″ size
12. Iron
13. Sewing machine and kits
14. Printer that able to print letter or A4 size paper
15. Acrobat reader (to open the pdf document)
16. 5 sheets of letter size or A4 size white paper

Download the printable pattern by clicking the picture of the left or here, remember to set your paper size to letter and don’t scale the printing. The pattern is in color but you can use black and white printer to print in gray scale.
Cut the fabrics and fusible interfacings according to the sizes and quantities needed. I love to cut the fabric a little bigger for this project so that I can trim to the correct size with a clean raw edge before sewing the binder tape.
Iron the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the corresponding fabric with low to medium heat.
Embroidery the top of the wallet, get the detail here.

Position the zipper and sew each side to the fabric with zipper foot. The zipper should have a width of 1/2″ to make the total witdh of the purse to 9 1/2″.
Sew one side of the zipper pocket to the zipper edge of the flora side. Turn to the right side and top stitch near to the zipper.
Turn back to the wrong side, fold the other edge over to the other side of the zipper, pin, turn to right side and top stitch near to the zipper at the embroidery side.

Place lining A (polkadot) under the top of the wallet with wrong side facing each other. Sew along the perimeter of the wallet with 1/8″ from the pattern outline. As I cut the fabrics bigger than they needed for the wallet, you can see that the edge is bigger than 1/8″, I trimmed away the extra fabric to get a fresh raw edge in my next step.

Trim away extra fabric if you cut your fabric bigger than it is needed.
If you cut exactly to the dimension, ignore this part as you don’t have extra to trim.
This is the “outside” of the wallet.
Sew pocket and flap. With right side facing each other, sew the 3 sides. Clip the corners and turn. Top stitch 3 sides of the flap and the top edge for the pocket.
Sew velco loop on the pocket and hook on the flap.
Position the flap and pocket to the dark brown lining B. Sew sides of pocket to the lining.
Prepare dark brown binder to a 1″ tape by using a bias tape maker or follow your method. Fold it to the long edge of the plastic sheet and double top stitch. Position it onto the dark brown lining B too.
Place the polkadot lining B under this dark brown lining with wrong side facing each other. Sew along the perimeter with 1/8″ from the pattern outline. Trim away extra edge if you have allowed.

Sew velco hook to the inside of the wallet, and loop to the outside of the wallet.
You can add a printed twill tape at the inside of the wallet as a receipt or note holder.
Sew polkadot and floral binder tapes to the top edges by using your method or follow the instruction below.

Now you have done the outside and inside of the wallet, it’s time to assemble them to become a wallet with the binder tape.
Stack the “inside” on top of the “outside” align at the bottom, place the polkadot binder tape on top of them, pin.
Sew along the folding line of the binder tape.

Fold the tape under and make sure the edge is aligned. Double top stitch 1/8″ from the edge.
Repeat the same to the top edge of the wallet.
Cut away extra length of binder tape at the ends.

Repeat the same to the side edges, but this time fold the ends in and sew before binding the side edges.
Fold the wallet into 3 parts and you are done!

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