I came across this beautiful loopy stitches few months ago, a reader sent me a picture and asked if I know how to crochet it… I didn’t have a clue that time, curiosity leaded me to find out more and spent some moment to practice and master the skill. Here I am, sharing with you how to crochet it (scroll down for the video demo). I am doing a couple of projects by using this crochet loop stitch, detail to follow soon.
Crochet loop stitch is some times being called as fur stitch. So far, I haven’t found any abbreviation for it, so I am going to call it by name… Loop Stitch (LS).
The loop can vary from long to short, depends on how long you want it to be. You can wrap the yarn around finger, or pen, even a Q-tip stick to manipulate the length of the loop. The top photo is the long loop I crocheted by wrapping the yarn around my index finger (as shown in the video below). The bottom photo is the short loop version which I wrap the yarn on a disposable chopstick.
There are 2 ways of crocheting it, 1 strand over or 2 strands over into the stitch. I found later is firmer as the loop is secure tied within the stitch.
The working is similar to as crochet a SC (single crochet), the only thing that you have to do is to wrap the yarn onto your finger and pull both strands through the stitch….. watch the video demo for better illustration.
Video On Crochet Loop Stitch
Additional info you may want to know:
1. If you are crocheting a flat work, alternate between row of loops and single crochet, provided you want to loopy looks on both sides.
2. If you are working on continuous, especially for amigurumi, you can choose to alternate or with loop stitches all the way.
3. You may cut the loop to create a shaggy look, or add beads for novelty look.
What can we do with loop stitch? The most common is the floor mat, may be a scarf, how about a sleeper with it, must be cozy if the loops are on the sleeper, otherwise, you can use it to sweep the floor if you make the loops at the bottom…. handbag, amigurumi flower, doll hair… etc… I think there are lots more possibilities… Please suggest to me what else you can apply this stitches to.
Thank you so much for posting this pattern. I have gone through all my old boxes of patterns looking for this particular one to make for friends. I made several of them in the 80’s for my babies. Thank you again.
For the hats I made for my boys, I used any brown yarn I had around the house. Infact the beard ended up with a fuzzy yarn and looked similar to hair. Everyone got a kick out of these hats. Fun to make as well.
….and If you could please make a tutorial on this kine of hat that would be awesome!!!!
Hi I really love your tutorials, so easy to follow, but I got a question if that’s okay. I am trying to make a hat which look like a wig with head-band and loopy hair on top and I was wondering what yarn size should I use???
I do not have the pattern you are looking for but you can easily convert a basic beanie which used single crochet stitch pattern. Perform loop stitch instead of single crochet on which ever part you want to have the loopy hair look. You will need to follow the yarn size of the basic beanie pattern.
I used to use this stitch to make curly hair for rag dolls.
Cute 🙂
Hi again… I think this is the full pattern… sorry for not realizing it before… this is made with a double crochet loop stitch… I only do mine with a single crochet which if you wish you could modify this pattern. Good luck with it and let me know how you make out.
SPUN SUGAR JACKET, HAT AND BOOTIES
Directions are for one size, infant to 3 months.
Gauge: 5 dc=1″; 2 rows dc=1″
Materials:
4 oz. 3-ply baby acrylic
Steel crochet hook size 0
4 small buttons for jacket
Note: If you are unfamiliar with the loop stitch, we suggest you work up a small swatch for practice. The stitch looks complicated, but is easy after a little practice.
General Directions: Unless otherwise specified, at end of each Row break yarn and fasten off. Join yarn for each new Row on the 3rd st of ch 3 on previous Row. The double crochet loop stitch (directions for this stitch below) is always made with the wrong side of garment facing you. Work carefully in order to avoid a mistake in counting.
Double Crochet Loop Stitch: (abbreviated dcL used in pattern). With wrong side of work toward you, * YO hook, insert hook in next st, hook yarn and pull through (three loops on hook). Wrap yarn around tip of left hand index finger, insert hook behind yarn and through loop on finger (Fig. 1), draw loop through first 2 loops on hook. Insert hook in front of loop on finger and in back of yarn (Fig. 2), and draw yarn through remaining loops on hook. drop long loop off finger. Repeat from * across.
In working loop stitch, keep yarn close to tip of finger, and wrap snugly. If you wish, you can wrap yarn around a pencil instead of finger.
JACKET
Yoke: Starting at neck edge ch 71. Counting the ch 3 as 1 dc, dc in 4th ch from hook, 10 dc, 4 dc in next st (inc made), 9 dc, inc, 23 dc, inc, 9 dc, inc, 12 dc. (81 sts) Fasten and break off yarn.
Row 2: Ch 3, 13 dc, inc, 12 dc, inc, 25 dc, inc, 12 dc, inc, 14 dc. (93 sts)
Row 3: Ch 3, 15 dc, inc, 15 dc, inc, 27 dc, inc, 15 dc, inc, 16 dc. (105 sts)
Row 4: Ch 3, 17 dc, inc, 18 dc, inc, 29 dc, inc, 18 dc, inc, 18 dc. (117 sts)
Row 5: Ch 3, 19 dc, inc, 21 dc, inc, 31 dc, inc, 21 dc, inc, 20 dc. (129 sts) Do not break yarn at end of this Row. Ch 3 to turn.
Row 6: 21 dcL, inc, 24 dcL, inc, 33 dcL, inc, 24 dcL, inc, 21 dcL, 1 dc in last st. Fasten and break off. (141 sts)
Row 7: Ch 3, 23 dcL, inc, 27 dcL, inc, 35 dcL, inc, 27 dcL, inc, 23 dcL, 1 dc. ( 153 sts)
Row 8: Ch 3, 25 dcL, inc, 30 dcL, inc, 37 dcL, inc, 30 dcL, inc, 25 dcL, 1 dc. (165 sts) This completes yoke.
Row 9: Ch 3, 25 dcL, 2 dcL in next st (inc made) skip 36 dcL, of previous Row (sleeve opening) inc in next st, 38 dcL across back, inc in next st, skip 36 dcL, in previous Row, 2 dcL in next st, 25 dcL, 1 dc.
Row 10: Ch 3, 27 dcL, inc in next st, 41 dcL across back, inc in next, 27 dcL, 1 dc. (101 sts)
Row 11: Ch 3, dcL across Row, 1 dc in last st. Repeat Row 11 until 6 more rows have been completed. Do NOT break yarn. Ch 3 to turn.
Row 18: Dc across Row, ch 3 slip st in last st of previous Row. Do not break yarn.
Edging: With right side of work facing you, sc along side front, across next sts, down left side front, across bottom sts and continue another Row of sc along right side front making 1st buttonhole on first loop st Row on yoke as follows: * ch 3, skip 1 sc, 3 sc. Repeat from * 3 times. ( buttonholes made) Do not break yarn. Join another strand of yarn on 1st sc of neck edge Row. Ch 3, dc across to last st, ch 3, join with slip st. Fasten and break yarn. Continue with 1st ball of yarn, sc across dc of neck edge, down left side front and across bottom edge. Slip st in last sc. Fasten off.
SLEEVES
Row 1: With wrong side facing you, insert hook at center underarm, through the 1st and last st worked of the previous Row. Attach yarn and ch 3, 36 dcL around, join to 1st dcL st of previous round.
Row 2: Ch 3, 35 dcL around, join.
Row 3: Ch 3, 34 dcL around, join.
Row 4: Ch 3, 33 dcL around, join.
Row 5: Ch 3, 32 dcL around, join.
Row 6: Ch 3, 31 dcL around, join.
Row 7: Ch 3, 30 dcL around, join.
Row 8: Ch 3, 29 dcL around, join.
Row 9: Ch 3, dcL 28 around, join.
Row 10: Sc around.
Fasten and break off. Work other sleeve to correspond.
Booties
Ch 28 sts and join, * ch 3, 5 dc (for instep) ch 3, turn. Repeat from * 2 more times. Fasten and break off.
Row 1: Attach yarn at center st (back) ch 3, 41 dc around.
Row 2: Sc around.
Row 3: Dc around.
Sole (4″ long): Picking up back loop of st of previous Row, decrease as follows: Skip 1 dc, sc in next st, 16 sc, skip 1, sc, skip 1, sc, skip 1, sc, 16 sc, skip 1, slip st in next st.
Next Row: Ch 1, skip 1 sc, sc, 13 sc, skip 1, sc, skip 1, sc, skip 1, sc, 13 sc, skip 1, slip st. Turning to inside, fold evenly and slip st to close opening. Fasten and break yarn. Turn right side out, attach yarn center back, sc around in back loop of sts of first Row of sole. Fasten and break off.
For Leg: Attach yarn at center back of leg opening.
Row 1: Ch 3, dc around (28 dc) join. Do not break yarn. Turn wrong side out to work dcL st.
Row 2: Ch 3, 28 dcL around, join.
Rows 3 and 4: Repeat Row 2.
Row 5: Sc around edge, join, fasten and break off. Make other bootie to correspond.
BONNET
Do not break yarn until specified. Ch 3, join in a ring, ch 3, work 10 dc in ring. Join.
Row 1: Ch 3, 2 dcL in each st around. (22 dcL)
Row 2: Ch 3, * 2 dcL in next st, 1 dcL in next st. Repeat from * (35 dcL).
Row 3: Ch 3, 1 dcL, * dcL in next 2 sts, 2 dcL in next st. Repeat from * (47 dcL)
Row 4: Ch 3, 2 dcL, * 2 dcL in next st, dcL in next 3 sts. Repeat from * (59 dcL).
Row 5: Ch 3, 59 dcL around.
Row 6: Ch 3, 46 dcL, dc in next st. Fasten and break off (12 sts left for neck opening)
Repeat Row 6 until 6 more rows have been completed. Sc around edge. Fasten and break off.
Fold one Row under. With right side facing you, attach yarn and sc along neck edge going through both thicknesses on each end. Fasten and break off. Attach yarn, ch 3, dc across Row, ch 3 and slip st to last sc of previous Row. Fasten and break off. Attach yarn and sc across, slip st last st. Fasten and break off.
Cords: Make a chain 22″ long, thread through dc sts at neck opening of jacket. Make a tassel fro each end of cord by winding yarn evenly around 1 ½” wide cardboard, 15 times. Tie together at top of tassel, cut yarn at bottom. Make a chain 24″ long, thread through dc sts at neck edge of hat, make and attach 2 tassels. Make cords 12 inches long for each bootie, thread through dc rows of leg opening, attach tassels. Mote: you may use ¼ ” wide satin ribbon in place of cords if preferred. Sew buttons to front.
SNOW BABY JACKET AND BERET
Directions are for size 6 months. Changes for size 1 year are in parentheses. Chest measurements are 20″ (21″)
Gauge: on Size 8 needles: 6 sts=1″; 7 rows stockinette st=1″
Materials:
4 (6) ozs. acrylic sport yarn
6 ½” diameter cabone rings
Knitting needles: Size 4 and Size 8 straight needles
Size 4 and Size 8 circular needles, 24 inches long
Size 7 double point needles (dp)
Size 8 double point needles
3 stitch holders
JACKET
With size 4 straight needles, cast on 121 (123) sts.
Row 1: * K1, P 1, repeat from * across.
Row 2: * P1, K1, repeat from * across. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until ribbing measures 2″, working buttonhole on 3rd (5th) Row. (To make buttonhole: At beg of Row, K1, P1, K1, YO, P2 together, continue in ribbing as established across Row. Work a button hole every 2″ until 6 have been completed.) Switch to 8 straight needles.
Row 1: * K1, P1, repeat from * for 8 sts, K 105 (107) sts, * P1, K1, repeat from * for 8 sts.
Row 2: * P1, K1, repeat from * for 8 sts, P 105 (107) sts, * K1, P1, repeat from * for 8 sts. Keeping the 2 front bands in ribbing repeat Rows 1 and 2 until work measures 4 ½ (5) inches above ribbing.
With right side facing, divide work as follows: Knit right side front across 33 sts, place on holder, bind off 3 sts, K across 49 (51) sts, place on holder, bind off 3 sts, knit across 33 sts (left front)
LEFT FRONT
Row 1: * P1, K1, repeat from * for 8 sts, P 25.
Row 2: Bind off 3 sts (underarm) K 21, * P1, K1, repeat from * for 8 sts.
Row 3: * P1, K1, repeat from * for 8 sts, P 22 sts.
Row 4: K 2 tog, K 20, * P1, K1, repeat from * for 8 sts.
Row 5: * P1, K1, repeat from * for 8 sts, P21.
Row 6: K 2 tog, K 19, * P1, K1, repeat from * 8 sts.
Row 7: * P1, K1, repeat from * for 8 sts, P20 (28sts). Break yarn, place 28 sts on holder. Work right side to correspond starting with * K1, P1, across band. Do not break yarn.
BACK
Place 49 (51) sts on needle with wrong side facing.
Row 1: Join yarn and P across.
Row 2: Knit across, dec 1 st each side, 47 (49) sts.
Row 3: P across, dec one stitch on each side, 45 (47) sts. Break yarn and place stitches on holder.
SLEEVES: With another ball of yarn and Size 4 straight needles cast on 29 (31) sts, * K1, P1, repeat from * across rows until work measures 1 ½ inches.
Change to Size 8 straight needles. Knit in stockinette (K one Row, P one Row) inc one st each side of work every 1 ½ inches until there are 35 (37) sts on needle. Continue in stockinette until work measures 5 ½ (6) inches from ribbing. Bind off 3 sts at beginning of the next 2 rows. Continue stockinette, dec one st on each side every other Row until 25 (27) sts remain. Break off yarn and place sts on holder. Work other sleeve to correspond.
With wrong side of work facing you, remove work from holders to Size 8 circular needle as follows: left front, sleeve, back, sleeve, right front. Work across 151 (153) sts as follows:
Row 1: * K1, P1, repeat from * across Row.
Row 2: * P1, K1, repeat from * across Row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for 2 ½ (3) inches ending on wrong side. Dec across next Row as follows:
P1, K1, P1, K1, * P1, K 2 tog. Repeat from * to last 9 sts. End Row, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1. (On large size begin this Row: P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 to * above and continue as above). Change to Size 4 circular needle. * K1, P1, repeat from * across Row.
Next Row: * P1, K1, repeat from * across Row. Repeat these two rows until 1″ has been completed.
Next Row: With wrong sides facing you, dec across Row as follows: P1, K1, P1, K1, P1,K1, P1, K1, * P1, K 3 tog, in back of st. Repeat from * across Row to last 9 sts. End Row with K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, 61 (63) sts.
Last Row: * K1, P1, repeat from * across. Bind off in ribbing.
Neck Band: With Size 4 straight needles, cast on 8 sts, * K1, P1, repeat from * for 9 rows making buttonhole on 4th and 9th rows.
Continue * K1, P1, repeating from * until neck band measures 11 ½ (12) inches. Bind off. Sew band around neck edge with front edge in line with end of 2nd buttonhole on band. Sew sides of sleeves and sew underarm openings.
MITTENS: With Size 4 double point needle, pick up 20 sts on back edge of sleeve (counting from sleeve seam). Cast on 10 (12) sts. Divide evenly on 3 dp needles. Knit around for 24 rounds.
Decrease as follows:
Row 1: * K1, P 2 tog, repeat around from *.
Row 2: K one round even.
Row 3: * K1, K 2 tog, repeat from * around. Break yarn, pull through sts and fasten securely.
BERET: With size 4 dp needle, cast on 80 (88) sts. Mark for beginning Row. Divide sts on 3 needles (26-26-28), * K1, P1, repeat from * for 3 (4) inches. Change to Size 8 dp needle.
First round: Inc one st in 1st st, K 39 (41, inc in next st, K around 82 (88) sts. K around for 3 inches.
1st decrease Row: * K1, P 2 tog, repeat around from * ending with P 3. 54 (58) sts. Change to Size 4 dp needle. * K1, P1, repeat from * around for ¾”.
2nd decrease Row: * K1, P 3 tog, repeat from * around. End with K1, P1 28 (30) * K1, P1, repeat around for 2 rows.
3rd decrease Row: K 2 tog around.
Break yarn, pull through sts and fasten. Fold ribbing in half and sew on inside, keeping sts loose so that beret will stretch as needed.
Fold over crown at beginning of ribbing and sew to top of ribbing at beginning of stockinette Row. Make 3 2″ diameter pompoms and attach down side of beret.
TIES AND BUTTONS: With 2 strands of yarn 8 yards long, crochet 11-inch ties on each side of beret and attach 1 ½” diameter pompom end of each. Crochet around 8, ½” cabone rings for buttons. Attach firmly. Work button hole st around buttonholes and around hand openings of mittens.
DREAM PUFF BABY AFGHAN
Original design by Jean Leinhauser
Approximate size of afghan: 32 X 43″
Gauge: 8 rows=3 ½”; 23 ch-sts=6″ wide
Materials: Aluminum crochet hook size K
5 4-oz skeins knitting worsted
Directions: Ch 103
Row 1: In 5th ch from hook, work (1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc), * skip 3 ch, work (1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc) in next ch, repeat from * across, end sk next ch, 1 dc in last ch. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: Sc in first dc, * 3 sc in ch-3 sp, YO draw up a loop in space between next 2 dc, YO, and draw through 2 loops, (YO, draw up a loop in same sp, YO and draw through 2 loops) 4 times, YO and draw through all 5 loops on hook, ch 1 ( a puff stitch has now been made). Repeat from * across, end 3 sc in ch-3 sp, sc in top of turning ch. Ch 1, turn.
Row 3: Sc in each sc and in each puff st across. Ch 3, turn.
Row 4: Sk 2 sc * (1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc) in next sc, sk 3 sc, repeat from * across, end sk next sc, 1 dc in last sc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 5: 1 sc in first dc, * 3 sc in ch-3 sp, 1 sc in space between next 2 dc, repeat from * across. Ch 1, turn.
Row 6: 1 sc in each of first 4 sc, * puff st in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, repeat from * across, end last repeat with 1 sc in each of last 4 sc. Ch1, turn.
Repeat Rows 3 through 6 until afghan measures approximately 41″ long, ending with pattern Row 4. On last Row 4, eliminate final ch st.
Fasten off.
SHELL BORDER
Work 1 Row of sc around entire afghan. Start shell pattern in corner: In first sc, work 7 dc, * skip 2 sc, work 1 sc in next sc, skip 2 sc, work 7 dc in next sc; repeat from * around.
Fasten off.
another Afghan to complete the set
Size: approx 32″ x 43″ Materials: Worsted wt yarn, 24 oz; aluminum crochet hook size K (Canadian size 2) or size need for gauge. Gauge: 3 sc = 1″ * rows = 3 ½ “InstructionsCh 99 loosely.
Row 1: in 5th ch from hook, work (dc, ch3, dc), * sk 3 ch, work (dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch; rep from * across, ending sk next ch, dc in last ch; ch 1, turn.
Row 2: sc in first dc, * 3 sc in ch-3 sp, sc in sp between next 2 dc; repeat from * across; ch 1, turn.
Row 3: sc in each of first 4 sc, * make puff st as follows: Yo, pull up a loop in next sc, Yo and draw through 2 loops, (YO pull up a loop in same sc, YO and draw through 2 loops) 4 times (6 loops on hook), YO and draw through all loops on hook, ch 1 (puff st made), sc in each of next 3 sc; rep from * across, ending last rep with sc in each of rem 4 sc; ch 1, turn.
Row 4: sc in first sc, * sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in puff st; rep from * across, ending sc in each of rem 4 sc; ch 3, turn: 97 sc.
Row 5: sk first 2 sc, * (dc, ch 3, dc) in next sc, sk 3 sc; rep from * across, ending sk next sc, dc in rem sc; ch 1, turn.
Rep rows 2 -5 until afghan measures approx. 41” long, ending by working Row 5. At end of last Row, do not ch; finish off.
Shell border: work 1 Row of sc around entire afghan. Start shell patt in corner: in first sc, work 7 dc, * sk 2 sc, work 1 sc in next sc, sk 2 sc, work 7 dc in next sc; rep from * arouond. Finish off.
Bobbie, thank you so much. I will try this now so I may have the pattern under control before I have someone to make it for!
Again, thank you.
I have a patten for a Jacket… it is in a pdf file… wish I could download it to you..
Reply
bobbie mellor thank you for the pattern.is there any chance you could put the rest of it up please? many thanks jayne
I have a pattern… it is in a pdf file… wish I could download it to you..
Loop Stitch Cap and Mittens Pattern
Pattern Book:
Baby Book Crocheted & Knitted
Materials Required:
AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY
“DAWN” WOOL and NYLON BULKY YARN or
“DAWN” BULKY YARN
10 ounces Shell Pink for LOOP ST CAP AND MITTENS or color of your choice
Plastic Crochet Hook Size J OR ANY SIZE HOOK WHICH WILL RESULT IN STITCH GAUGE BELOW
GAUGE: 3 sc = 1 inch, 3 rows = 1 inch
LOOP STITCH CAP
CENTER SECTION: With Shell Pink work in same manner as center section of Basic Cap Pattern but working all even rows in double loop sts (double loop st: wind yarn twice around index finger, insert hook in st, pick up the 2 loops from finger and pull through st, complete sc), cut yarn.
SIDE SECTIONS: Work 1st row same as 1st row of side section of Basic Cap Pattern. 2nd ROW: 1 double loop st in each of the 1st 3 sc, * skip next sc, 1 double loop st in each of the next 3 sc, repeat from * across row. Work remainder of section in same manner working all even rows in double loop sts. Work other side section to correspond. With wrong side of work toward you work a row of double loop sts around entire cap working 1 double loop st in each st and in each row on sides of Cap. If desired a row of slip stitches (sl sts) may be worked around entire Cap. Work ties in same manner as Basic Cap Pattern.
LOOP STITCH MITTENS
With Shell Pink ch 19 (6 inches long), join to form a ring, ch 1 and work 1 double loop st in each of the 1st 10 sts of ch and 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, join, ch 1 to turn all rounds. 2nd ROUND: 1 sc in each st (19 sts), join. 3rd ROUND: 1 double loop st in each of the 1st 10 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, join. Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rounds twice. 8th ROUND: Working in sc decrease 2 sts evenly spaced in both front and back sections (15 sc). 9th ROUND: 1 double loop st in each of the 1st 8 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 7 sts, join. 10th ROUND: Same as 8th round (11 sts). 11th ROUND: 1 double loop st in each of the 1st 6 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, join, cut yarn leaving a length for sewing. Draw sts together and sew firmly. With Shell Pink work remainder of mitten and ties same as Basic Mittens Pattern omitting pompons.
Back in the 70’s when my friends and I were young we made short little jackets with this stitch that we called “chubbies”. They had a boxy look, no button and were reminiscent of the 30’s. We loved them. I recently came across one in an antique shop. But if someone could come up with a jacket pattern that would be great!
I had a pattern book of baby sweater sets more than 30 years ago and it contained this stitch for one of the sets. I was pregnant with my last child and I made it for him before he was born. It was beautiful but only fit the almost 10lb baby for a short while. I loan it to my sister the next year for my newborn niece and she gave it away or I would have a picture of it for you! I have looked for years for the pattern to make it for grandchildren and now I may get to make something for a great grandchild. Thank you so much.
I am making little crochet beanie hats for my five little boys. I wanted to add a face warmer in the shape of a beard to those hats. I saw these hats for sale for 40 dollars online so I wanted to make my own. This stitch is perfect for the beards! Thanks for sharing!
That would be very cute on your boys, love to see the picture of them if you can share with me.
Thanks.
I am looking for the pattern to make a loop jackes for my granddaugter having a hard time finding one. The one I am looking for is the one you crochet. can anyone help me.
I love your tutorial. I used it to make a flower. Here it is: http://sheepdogsfleece.blogspot.com/2012/02/giant-flowers.html
OMG, so cute and so huge!!!! Well done, Rachel!!!! Love it 🙂
oh i love this stitch i used to knit loopy cardigans for my daughters many moona ago would love pattern for crochet ones if anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated thanks x
what kind of yarn would you suggest to make a rug?
Bulky acrylic yarn would be good for rug. Or, you may consider using fabric strips to substitute the yarn.
so for the base I should use acrylic yarn? Then for the loops either use the same material or use strips of fabric?
It is 1 piece, either acrylic or fabric, provided you want to make a fabric face and an extra single crochet acrylic base and sew them together.
OH OK. I was thinking that you could crochet a base and then loop strips of fabric and tie them to the base like the blankets that are tied all around the edges. I will take pics and send them to you.
you don’t really to do the double work. The loop stitch itself will give you a base. Of course, there are all kinds of possibilities when come to creativity… I would love to see a photo of yours.
Now if you design a sheep amigurumi with this, I’ll have a reason to learn it 🙂
Zoe
Hi Zoe, did you peep into my to-do list? The sheep ami pattern using this loop is coming soon ha ha ha…. till then, you may find this sheep earmuffs interesting.
Ooooohhhh they’re so cute! Should be adaptable to an amigurumi! Will put it in my queue…
just a quick ? if you don’t mind. when you say “There are 2 ways of crocheting it, 1 strand over or 2 strands over into the stitch. I found later is firmer as the loop is secure tied within the stitch.” Is this the way your video is ’cause i’m not sure what you’re saying here.
my pointer finger is sky high when i crochet, but i found a solution. after i pull the loop thru, i drop the loop onto a bic lighter (or whatever size diameter you want the loop to be and then pull the loop tight on the lighter and then yarn over & pull thru the 3 loops = even loops!
I found a pattern in a crochet book that was a present to me where the loop stitch is used to outline the neckline and cuffs of a jacket. It looks really neat. I may try to crochet this jacket now. Thank you for the tutorial. It doesn’t look nearly as hard as the instructions for the jacket stated.
My brother suggested I might like this blog. He was entirely right. This post actually made my day. You can not imagine simply how much time I had spent for this information! Thanks!
You are a very intelligent person!
Perfectamente explicado,yo no se hacer crochet,pero me voy a animar,muchas gracias por compartir todo lo que sabe,es usted estupenda.
Translation (by Google):
Fully explained, I do not crochet, but I’m going to encourage, thank you very much for sharing all you know, you’re great.
Im very happy with this tutto…thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the great tutorial! I have been scratching my head over how to make doll’s hair, and it was so simple all along! My dolls have really long hair, so I taped a pencil on my desk, with half of it sticking out over the edge. I wrapped the yarn over the crochet hook, then around the pencil, yo the hook, and pulled until the loop was 5 inches long. It works perfect!
Your are welcome!!! Glad that your doll has a new hairstyle, I believe she should look very trendy 🙂 Mind to share a photo in the facebook page?
I have a baby sweater pattern to do this stitch with, but I’ve never done it before. I watched your video and can do it, but all the loops are a different length. How do I manuever the pencil or knitting needle in there to be sure that all the loops are the same size. I am so lost…please help.
Thank you,
Kris
It is just like looping the yarn around the finger.
I am looking for crochet patterns using the loop stitch,.. I made a hot pink jacket for my little girl many years agao, she is now 40 and wants me to make her one… would anyone have a crochet pattern for an adult size sweater using the loop stitch?
Thanks for any help you can give me.. and Kris, if you could send me the baby sweater pattern I would truely appreciate it.
Thanks,
Bobbie
I had a pattern for a baby sweater hat and bootie made with the loop stitch years ago and enjoyed making it for a lot of friends, but had lost it over the years. Now I would love to make this for our frist granddaughter. If anyone has this pattern and would share it or let me buy it. Please let me know
thank you
Kris…. I use my finger.. it works well for me.
Kris… could you post the baby sweater pattern that you have.. you can select, copy and paste it right in your answer to me.. thanks.
Hi! I simply wanted to say your site is one of the nicely laid out, most inspirational I have come across in quite a while. Thx! 🙂
I came across your article, i think your blog is awsome, keep us posting.
Great website , love the template. Seriously considering migrating to this blog platform now!
I have seen a crocheted swiffer tut at OPT, if you added the loop stitch to the swiffer- wow!
I am thinking the same after I saw it in Etsy. Will go and get some cheap yarn and try on it soon 🙂
I have been trying to find a good tutorial for this stitch! Can’t wait to try it! Thanks for sharing!
You are welcome, let me know should you have any question 🙂
Wow this will use a lot of yarn. Suggestion: A hair band?
This is a good one 🙂
Loop stitch does consume more yarn than usual and it depends how big the loop is 🙂
wow! That is so pretty! and that is so cool of you to share! Not that I will be able to do anything like it, but wow!
I remember my mother had a white jacket that was looked exactly like that longer stitch and I loved it!
Thanks for sharing! 🙂
May be a shaggy collar for a jacket would be nice too 🙂
That is so cool and this is brand new to me, I love that! Thanks so much for the video, I’ll be linking.
Thanks, Rachel!!! I really love One Pretty Thing, you consolidate all DIY’s there and it is like a gateway to handmade!!!
Design nya simple but it’s look great (y)Like it
really very nice thank you